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How-to section / Key FOB reprogramming for Gen 1 and 2
« Last post by RTTTTed on July 17, 2018, 10:02:55 AM »
Thanks to  BLRDViper on site fpr this clearly written key fob instructions.
Let's make this easy:

1. Ensure the alarm system is not armed.

2. (1996 ~ 1998 GEN II) Ground pin C13 loose green wire taped to harness of EEM connector, which is under dash mounted on the left side of trans tunnel, directly above accelerator. Easy access if you remove knee bolster and rubber bungee cord that holds EEM to tunnel.

2A. (1999 ~ 2002) As #2, but instead of C13 you're grounding Terminal 1 of the DLC, Data Link Connector, i.e. the under dash OBD2 connector which is above your left knee

2B. (ALL GEN I) Ground green "Program" Wire located next to SAM and RKE modules. Is a green wire with a bullet connector on end. Is located under driver's side instrument panel.

Hint, Make sure you're connecting to a solid body ground by testing it with an ohm meter.

3. Turn ignition to run position while green wire is still grounded!

4. EEM acknowledges entry into programming mode by flashing the dash LED. If it doesn't flash, you either:

- Have the wrong wire

- Aren't solidly grounded

- You came off ground after the ignition switch was placed in the run position. Start over.

5. (All GEN II) Press BOTH buttons on the transmitter simultaneously and continuously for 10 seconds. You will hear a triple horn chirp when FOB is accepted by the EEM.

5B. (All GEN I) Press and release the arm or disarm button on either FOB, then same for the next.

Hint: Make sure your transmitter is working, i.e fresh CR2032 battery $1.19 @ and good clean battery contacts. Many times your problem is an electrically weak connection within the FOB itself.

6. You MUST program all FOBS during the same programming process. You can program up to 4 on a GEN II and I think only 2 on a GEN I.

That's it. Turn the ignition off and remove green wire from ground, then test the arm and disarm functions.

I've done 4 FOBS myself and found it quite easy once you find the green wire."
How-to section / Re: Gen 1, 2 and 3 Viper Con Rod Bearing Fix
« Last post by RTTTTed on June 21, 2018, 10:14:47 AM »
Recently I've upgraded to a K&P Engineering reuseable oil filter from IPSCO since my rod bearings are damaged again. 
One problem with the disposable cartridge oil filter is that the filter's restriction is so high when cold that the bypass opens only AFTER the paper filter warms up.  The Stainless medical grade filter media flows 90gal per minute and will also filter the oil when the engine is COLD and operate with much less restriction!  There is also a magnet encased in the oil filter to help. 
'92 to 2002 Heater fan motor with squirrel cage works in gen 3/4 Vipers (and I'd GUESS) Gen 1/2 as well.  removal is from passenger foot well (inside car).  Rock auto, junk yards etc.

93 to 98 Jeep cherokee also fit (at least those years).
How-to section / Re: Vehicle export from US to CDA
« Last post by RTTTTed on June 05, 2018, 12:14:29 AM »
New laws and rules.  As of previous to 2018 an electronic file is required and they require you to hire a US Broker to electronically file your paperwork.  Cost me $150 from Bosche Brokers at the Sumas border crossing. You can phone or email him online for his service.
RT/10 & GTS Viper Discussions / 2001 GTS Door Window not attached
« Last post by DarcShadow on April 05, 2018, 10:47:10 AM »
My passenger side door window on my 2001 GTS won't go up. I took the door panel apart and discovered that the window is not attached to the part that goes up and down. I have no idea what the part would be called or how it's intended to connect to the window.

Does anyone have an exploded view parts drawing that would show the part I need and possibly how it's connected to the window?
Viper Parts For Sale / Re: 1:18 Gold Plated Viper Diecast
« Last post by RTTTTed on March 25, 2018, 11:38:10 AM »
How-to section / Re: Tom's 40mm brakes are back!
« Last post by 40mm on March 24, 2018, 04:42:01 PM »
Ok wow!
There is still a demand for these!
All gone for 2018!

Once I get all the cores back there will be another run, but not likely until spring '19 though.... (maybe this fall?)

If anyone has any questions, or would like to get on the no obligation wait list, I do it first come, first serve.

Just send me an email at or call/text 647-992-3933.

Thanks to all who got some!

Cheers all, Rick
How-to section / Re: Tom's 40mm brakes are back!
« Last post by 40mm on March 21, 2018, 07:43:14 AM »
Hi all.

As promised, the 2018 40mm calipers are here.
I now only have 3 sets left (after I filled the folks orders who were kind enough to pre-book them)

Everything about these detail-wise is the same as last year including the price, $800 shipped with your old cores returned to me after install of these.

There is one change, I'm doing them in red as well as black!
It looks awesome and has been reported as being a close match to the red fronts, however I haven't seen a side-by-side comparison yet. They're more red and less orange than the picture shows.

Contact details above are still correct.

Here's pics, (They're more red and less orange than the picture shows.)
Cheers! Rick
How-to section / Re: Opening up Rear Wheelwells for Big tires
« Last post by RTTTTed on March 20, 2018, 01:27:29 PM »
Now I'm finishing up the wheel well mods on my 1998 Hennessey TT.  This car has a dated SVS Twin turbo system that dyno shows 900whp.  Traction is an issue.  Best way to gain traction is taller and softer compound tires.  Stock gen 2 wheel wells only allow up to about 27" tall tires before rubbing through the plastic tubs and rubbing metal firewall of metal frame. So ...  here we go again.

Pic show starting the 'fold' to curve the firewall from flat to round for tire clearance.

2nd pic shows firewall folded, reshaped to the curve and frame cross member cut and welded narrower using .120" steel plate instead of .072" frame material and capping open end.

3rd pic shows finished wheel tub reshaped.

4th pic shows flattened plastic wheel tub Rivnutted/bolted back into place
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