The VIPER Garage
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Welcome to the updated Viper Garage.  We look forward to exchanging stories, events, tech info, pictures and fun.  Welcome to our humble Viper Home
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How-to section / Little Dress Up Tip.
« Last post by RTTTTed on October 11, 2018, 10:16:54 AM »
Just a note that people don't all know about;

When tightening gear clamps on the rad hoses, the intake hoses and vacuum hoses most people just tighten them in the easiest position. 

Back in my Custom Car Show days one of the other guys showed me that if you position the gear and the loose strap on the bottom of the hose it really isn't much harder to tighten and with the gear pn the bottom (under the hose) the engine compartment looks much cleaner since all that shows of the gear clamp (or T bar clamp for us TT guys) is the shiny Stainless strap across the the hose!
A common problem with Gen 2 GTSs is the cabin exhaust vents getting knocked out of place.  When this happens the exhaust can enter the car when the window/s are open.

All that is necessary is to replace the vent in it's spot at the rear corners of the car's quarter panels.  The 4 vents are located 2 per side.  Pull the side carpet back and see if the vent panels are lined up properly with the rubber seals in a horizontal position.  It will normally be obvious if the vent panels are knocked out, they can't go far but they do move back from the car's body losing the seal and allowing exhaust to enter the cabin.

See picture below to see misalignment.

RT/10 & GTS Viper Discussions / Re: MY Roe GTS with Pics
« Last post by RTTTTed on October 07, 2018, 10:45:11 PM »
Went to Leduc with Joel to help him get in some drag runs and there was a few problems before we were booted off the track for going too fast.  9.3@160mph ....

One the way home from Joel's house two Deer attacked me and when I saw an opening I turned the wheel, hit a puddle, spun out and went into ditch where the car flipped onto the roof and Insurance wrote it off.

They did agree to pay me $58,000 + tax costs

Everything in and on my car was upgraded and new so although I have cheapo Gov oinsurance and they only pay a max of $5000 over stock value, I bought the car back to sell off the built engine, blower, big brakes, Tranzilla, axles, headers, stereo Big Brakes, etc etc
RT/10 & GTS Viper Discussions / Re: Front mount twin turbo all out build
« Last post by jtin on July 21, 2018, 07:41:07 PM »
Yes the car has had a few major changes. The engine and turbo system remain the same. 

As far as the drags go it went 8.7 @ 163 and 9.20@168.
Returned short after that and it went 10.0 @ 169 with bad O2 sensor missing out on the first 300 feet.
Recently went back out and ran 9.20@160 blowing tires at 100ft Mark and lifted a head on that pass. 

It’s currently being rebuilt and by mid August I’d like to run a clean pass from beginning to end.  Hoping for 8.50’s at 170 plus. See what happens.
Viper/Viper Truck Registry / Re: 2010 Final Edition answer
« Last post by RTTTTed on July 21, 2018, 03:57:04 PM »
I talked to Willowbrook Chrysler owner Doug Seal and he said Drew sold him his clone ACRX and got a ride.  He's a paid pro driver now!
RT/10 & GTS Viper Discussions / Re: 2001 GTS Door Window not attached
« Last post by RTTTTed on July 21, 2018, 03:54:18 PM »
Yes, the pin is attached to a bracket glued to the window glass.  The winder motor and track has a moving plastic bracket that the cables move up and down.  Mine has popped out in me a few times already.  The plastic fixture can be replaced although I'm not so sure of the window bracket.

There is a fancy 'C' clip that slides into the white plastic carrier that is part of the middle window track.  It hold the "stud" from the window to the carrier.  You can easily unbolt the 3 motor bolts and the two track bolts and pull it out of the door to look at it.  Don't forget to disconnect the electrical connector.

Bad motors is a bit of a problem I was told, but I haven't seen that. just the one window popping out of the carrier/shuttle on my 98 Hennessey. 
Viper/Viper Truck Registry / Re: Registry - Status Update
« Last post by RTTTTed on July 21, 2018, 01:26:47 PM »
I'm sending this to Trevor Cameron (site supporter) since he bought a Red Paxton supercharged SRT10 pickup to go with his Red SRT10 Viper.  He's in Alberta.
Viper/Viper Truck Registry / Re: Back to work on the RAM SRT-10
« Last post by RTTTTed on July 21, 2018, 01:24:18 PM »
On the military purchase it probably saved some taxes is my guess.
RT/10 & GTS Viper Discussions / Re: Front mount twin turbo all out build
« Last post by RTTTTed on July 21, 2018, 12:21:31 PM »
Awesome work Joel.  Lots of good information in this thread!  You ran a 8.7@ 160mph last year didn't you?

After busting my GForce 1200hp rated T56 I started a Lenco build.  Purchased Lenco and Gear Vendor.  Requires custom slipper clutch and custom made bellhousing etc so I put that on hold for awhile

I was offered a deal on a T400 "kit" and I bought it for half price.  It's a 1200hp build so I'll keep my boost low until I build a new tranny or go back to my Lenco project.

We ran 9.3@169mph on a drag day at Castrol Dragstrip in Leduc!  Car squated and rolled out 300' before cleaning out and running hard.  They kicked us off the track before we got to actually get a good run in.

Gonna be killer once you get it sorted out.  Roll bar and chute installed now.
How-to section / Key FOB reprogramming for Gen 1 and 2
« Last post by RTTTTed on July 17, 2018, 10:02:55 AM »
Thanks to  BLRDViper on site fpr this clearly written key fob instructions.
Let's make this easy:

1. Ensure the alarm system is not armed.

2. (1996 ~ 1998 GEN II) Ground pin C13 loose green wire taped to harness of EEM connector, which is under dash mounted on the left side of trans tunnel, directly above accelerator. Easy access if you remove knee bolster and rubber bungee cord that holds EEM to tunnel.

2A. (1999 ~ 2002) As #2, but instead of C13 you're grounding Terminal 1 of the DLC, Data Link Connector, i.e. the under dash OBD2 connector which is above your left knee

2B. (ALL GEN I) Ground green "Program" Wire located next to SAM and RKE modules. Is a green wire with a bullet connector on end. Is located under driver's side instrument panel.

Hint, Make sure you're connecting to a solid body ground by testing it with an ohm meter.

3. Turn ignition to run position while green wire is still grounded!

4. EEM acknowledges entry into programming mode by flashing the dash LED. If it doesn't flash, you either:

- Have the wrong wire

- Aren't solidly grounded

- You came off ground after the ignition switch was placed in the run position. Start over.

5. (All GEN II) Press BOTH buttons on the transmitter simultaneously and continuously for 10 seconds. You will hear a triple horn chirp when FOB is accepted by the EEM.

5B. (All GEN I) Press and release the arm or disarm button on either FOB, then same for the next.

Hint: Make sure your transmitter is working, i.e fresh CR2032 battery $1.19 @ and good clean battery contacts. Many times your problem is an electrically weak connection within the FOB itself.

6. You MUST program all FOBS during the same programming process. You can program up to 4 on a GEN II and I think only 2 on a GEN I.

That's it. Turn the ignition off and remove green wire from ground, then test the arm and disarm functions.

I've done 4 FOBS myself and found it quite easy once you find the green wire."
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