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Viper Pit / HAPPY NEW YEAR ALL!!!!!!
« Last post by VIPER BAZ UK on January 05, 2017, 03:43:12 PM »
And all the best for a great 2017!!!!!
How-to section / Re: DIY Big Brakes Gen1/2
« Last post by RTTTTed on December 26, 2016, 09:34:11 PM »
Gen 2 rear rotors are thinner and have a much smaller friction surface than the front 13" Brembo brakes. 

The brake pads of the stock gen 2 are about 50% the material of the front brakes. 

If unable to upgrade rear brakes on a Gen 2 then the ABS or Tom's 40mm calipers with ceramic pads and lightweight drilled slotted rotors are the best choice.

RT/10 & GTS Viper Discussions / Re: MY TT GTS (Ted's)
« Last post by RTTTTed on December 19, 2016, 10:00:13 AM »
I finally removed the transmission from the car and since my problems were 5th gear I pulled the tailshaft.  I found the 5/6th synchro drum in the bottom of the case in 4 pieces.  Gears and assembly looked mint.  Should be an easy fix.
Joel Fortin happened to have a few extra synchro drums on his shelf and he shipped one to me for free.  It's good to have friends.

I am shopping for a stronger design transmission, as is Joel (since he busted 7 T56s).  Joel was counting the RUNS per Ttransmission.  I think at mid range power he was getting 40 power runs per trans.

We've looked into Turbo 400s, Gear Vendor. Lenco, BJ Trans and PPG sequential transmissions and so far they are all coming in at $10,000 US for a 1500whp and up rating.  Automatic requires an adapter kit, Gear Vendor for overdrive, and transmission tunnel (frame) changes to fit.  Auto would be the safest and quickest launch in the quarter mile but the only advantage in Mile, Halfmile and roll races is the full power shifts.  Automatic at 1100whp level will lose 150whp through the Torque Convertor and hydraulic drive system.  It is an enigma.  Tony Armor solved the problem by installing a Powerglide for drag racing and running the Tremec 6 speed for everything else.
Sparkplugs that actually fit in your engine and are NOT tapered or projected tips are nearly impossible to find in the real world.  Trying to buy cold plugs ... that won't damage my TT engine was an impossible task lately.  I got a set of strange looking NGK plugs that had no threads on the last 1/4" of steel body that would project into my combustion chamber when I bought a set of the only plugs that would fit into my V10 from the large partstores inventory.  I tried Autozone and they gave me a set of LONGER tapered seat spark plugs (didn't notice until I was a couple hundred miles down the road.  I got frustrated and emailed JonB/ and asked if he could ship a set of plugs to Ely so they'd be there before me.  A cheap set of plugs with NO shipping charges is a waste of $27.98 if they don't fit into your engine or may burn a piston being too hot ...  JonB called me back and gave me part numbers for plugs

I remember when there was only Champion and Autolite plugs.  Heat ranges were designated by the last 2 numbers.  Now there are a zillion plugs and several dozen different types of plugs.  Partsmen don't know all of the codes and designations to all the different brands and styles.  I am upset that they would sell me plugs that stick a longer way into my combustion chamber than stock and could possibly damage the engine while pretending that they KNOW what they're selling me ... :mad:  Local partsman actually said that he didn't know.  Autozone 'expert' had no problem recommending the completely wrong plugs ...Don't 'test' wrong plugs.  Use the ones already in your engine, use the ones recommended by your Tuner (if you have one) or these worked great for me.  Thankyou!

NGK 4291 gapped at .028  .036" if normally aspirated

Running my 1400whp TT GTS I ran ZFR6F-11    Stock no 4291 gapped at .022"   These are 2 heat ranges colder than stock which is designated by the '6'   A '7' in the ID would designate 1 heat range colder than stock.  My Roe Viper came with NGKBKR7E gapped at .032"

Also shown is some YellowJacket pugs (Accel) and a spark plug wrench I found works best with the Gen 2 Vipers.
How-to section / Re: Trap Door Oil Pan Modification
« Last post by RTTTTed on October 12, 2016, 12:04:35 AM »
Whenever I take something apart I look at the flow pathways.  In this case I have the oil pan off and am trying to contain the oil near the pick up to minimize oil starvation when accelerating, turning or stopping.  Any further improvements I can make are a bonus!

So when you drop the oil pan look at the fitting of the pan pick up conduit, the aluminium plate gasket and the engine block conduit.  They aren't the same size and the holes don't line up that well ... Like head porting there is free hp and better oil delivery and pressure when the SUCTION side of the pump flows easier.  Higher volume and higher pressure (which equals engine safety) oil is needed with modern emissions based engines.  Gen 1/2 Vipers don't oil well at 6000rpm so all upgrades are an improvement.  Match porting the oiling passage mating surfaces is an excellent upgrade and makes the engine safer as well as faster.

I stuffed cloth deep into the oil pick up conduits to minimize aluminium filings from getting too far into the conduit and help with cleaning.  I used a small round file to clean and smooth the oil passage entry into the engine block.  I found casting flash which I broke off at the block opening.  Restrictive and a potential catastrophic engine failure if the flash broke off and got sucked into the oil pump.  Using the smal round file with the cutting angle DOWN I filed the obstruction left when the bottom of the block was machined flat.  I used a fine chainsaw file to make the opening smooth and remove any filing marks from the courser round file.  I did the same with the oil pan and filed both openings to better match and line up with each other. 

I learned the oil passage match porting from working and blueprinting 2.2L turbo engines.  A 175bhp engine would gain 4hp when the oil passage into the block was filed slightly to remove some of the angle that the oil had to change to enter the block from the oil pump.  Discovering the 7% restriction at the block opening would cause a big difference in the performance of the engine's oiling system plus a hp gain because of less restriction! 
How-to section / Re: Built a fuel pump hanger..
« Last post by RTTTTed on October 03, 2016, 02:21:09 PM »
We ran up to 1390whp/1200wtq with steady fuel pressure with the pair of Walbro 450lph pumps. 
How-to section / Re: Wilwood 12.25 in brakes for 15 in rims on Viper rear
« Last post by RTTTTed on September 18, 2016, 01:24:02 PM »
Wheelwell Tire fitment is posted on this thread,6032.0.html   (with pics)

To summarize: 28" tall tires fit inside the wheelwells with 1 5/8" space to inner plastic wheel tubs.  That should allow a 29.5" tall tire to fit within the plastic wheeltubs.  30" should be a fit if the plastic wheel tubs are replaced with aluminium sheet metal
How-to section / Re: Opening up Rear Wheelwells for Big tires
« Last post by RTTTTed on September 17, 2016, 10:37:59 PM »
After reshaping the rear wheelwells 355 x 30" x 19" Pirelli tires (27" tall) fit easily on the back of both my Viper GTSs.  I have 2" clearance from tire to wheel tubs

I ran my Hoosier 14.5 x 16 x 28" Hoosier wrinkle slicks and they no longer touch the inner plastic tubs.  I can fit a 2x4" between tire and wheel tubs which is 1.5" clearance.

My new 325 x 50 x 15" Mickey Thompson ET Street 'R' tires are 28.3" tall and again, a 2 x 4" flat will fit between the tire and wheeltubs/

How-to section / Re: DIY side exhaust
« Last post by RTTTTed on September 17, 2016, 10:17:40 PM »
I bought a set of beat up Gen 1 side sills and cut, then rolled the edge because my 4" exhaust pipe exit is oval and instead of being a sharp radius 90 degree bend my pipes were cut oval because they were  a 45 degree bend.  I wet sanded them (in the tub while showering) and sprayed them with Lacquer paint then rubbed the smooth parts of the sill creating the shine lacquer is famous for while leaving the contoured shape velvet finish.  Although not great they looked great on the car.

Standing beside the car while tuning it on the dyno made me decide to NOT stand beside the car's hot exhaust.  That also decided me that I needed to wear my helmet before listening to full throttle at boost. 
How-to section / Re: Wilwood 12.25 in brakes for 15 in rims on Viper rear
« Last post by RTTTTed on September 17, 2016, 06:28:27 PM »
I bought Mickey Thompson ET Street 'R' Drag Radials for my TT GTS for Shif Sector Halfmile event.  With the car on the dyno under boost at 1400whp the car squatted and the lower ball joints as well as the upper grease nipples touched and ground away some of my inner wheel barrel.  I removed the tires and ground the lower bal joints to the edge of the cotter pin holes.  We removed the upper grease nipples and chopped them short.  The right side still touched so I'll need to remove even more material from that lower ball joint.  Probably lock tite the nut and grind another 1/8" material off the nuts and shafts.  Not room for the cotter pins it seems.
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