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91
RT/10 & GTS Viper Discussions / Re: MY TT GTS (Ted's)
« Last post by RTTTTed on December 19, 2016, 10:00:13 AM »
I finally removed the transmission from the car and since my problems were 5th gear I pulled the tailshaft.  I found the 5/6th synchro drum in the bottom of the case in 4 pieces.  Gears and assembly looked mint.  Should be an easy fix.
d
Joel Fortin happened to have a few extra synchro drums on his shelf and he shipped one to me for free.  It's good to have friends.

I am shopping for a stronger design transmission, as is Joel (since he busted 7 T56s).  Joel was counting the RUNS per Ttransmission.  I think at mid range power he was getting 40 power runs per trans.

We've looked into Turbo 400s, Gear Vendor. Lenco, BJ Trans and PPG sequential transmissions and so far they are all coming in at $10,000 US for a 1500whp and up rating.  Automatic requires an adapter kit, Gear Vendor for overdrive, and transmission tunnel (frame) changes to fit.  Auto would be the safest and quickest launch in the quarter mile but the only advantage in Mile, Halfmile and roll races is the full power shifts.  Automatic at 1100whp level will lose 150whp through the Torque Convertor and hydraulic drive system.  It is an enigma.  Tony Armor solved the problem by installing a Powerglide for drag racing and running the Tremec 6 speed for everything else.
92
Sparkplugs that actually fit in your engine and are NOT tapered or projected tips are nearly impossible to find in the real world.  Trying to buy cold plugs ... that won't damage my TT engine was an impossible task lately.  I got a set of strange looking NGK plugs that had no threads on the last 1/4" of steel body that would project into my combustion chamber when I bought a set of the only plugs that would fit into my V10 from the large partstores inventory.  I tried Autozone and they gave me a set of LONGER tapered seat spark plugs (didn't notice until I was a couple hundred miles down the road.  I got frustrated and emailed JonB/partsrack.com and asked if he could ship a set of plugs to Ely so they'd be there before me.  A cheap set of plugs with NO shipping charges is a waste of $27.98 if they don't fit into your engine or may burn a piston being too hot ...  JonB called me back and gave me part numbers for plugs

I remember when there was only Champion and Autolite plugs.  Heat ranges were designated by the last 2 numbers.  Now there are a zillion plugs and several dozen different types of plugs.  Partsmen don't know all of the codes and designations to all the different brands and styles.  I am upset that they would sell me plugs that stick a longer way into my combustion chamber than stock and could possibly damage the engine while pretending that they KNOW what they're selling me ... :mad:  Local partsman actually said that he didn't know.  Autozone 'expert' had no problem recommending the completely wrong plugs ...Don't 'test' wrong plugs.  Use the ones already in your engine, use the ones recommended by your Tuner (if you have one) or these worked great for me.  Thankyou!

NGK 4291 gapped at .028  .036" if normally aspirated

Running my 1400whp TT GTS I ran ZFR6F-11    Stock no 4291 gapped at .022"   These are 2 heat ranges colder than stock which is designated by the '6'   A '7' in the ID would designate 1 heat range colder than stock.  My Roe Viper came with NGKBKR7E gapped at .032"

Also shown is some YellowJacket pugs (Accel) and a spark plug wrench I found works best with the Gen 2 Vipers.
93
How-to section / Re: Trap Door Oil Pan Modification
« Last post by RTTTTed on October 12, 2016, 12:04:35 AM »
Whenever I take something apart I look at the flow pathways.  In this case I have the oil pan off and am trying to contain the oil near the pick up to minimize oil starvation when accelerating, turning or stopping.  Any further improvements I can make are a bonus!

So when you drop the oil pan look at the fitting of the pan pick up conduit, the aluminium plate gasket and the engine block conduit.  They aren't the same size and the holes don't line up that well ... Like head porting there is free hp and better oil delivery and pressure when the SUCTION side of the pump flows easier.  Higher volume and higher pressure (which equals engine safety) oil is needed with modern emissions based engines.  Gen 1/2 Vipers don't oil well at 6000rpm so all upgrades are an improvement.  Match porting the oiling passage mating surfaces is an excellent upgrade and makes the engine safer as well as faster.

I stuffed cloth deep into the oil pick up conduits to minimize aluminium filings from getting too far into the conduit and help with cleaning.  I used a small round file to clean and smooth the oil passage entry into the engine block.  I found casting flash which I broke off at the block opening.  Restrictive and a potential catastrophic engine failure if the flash broke off and got sucked into the oil pump.  Using the smal round file with the cutting angle DOWN I filed the obstruction left when the bottom of the block was machined flat.  I used a fine chainsaw file to make the opening smooth and remove any filing marks from the courser round file.  I did the same with the oil pan and filed both openings to better match and line up with each other. 

I learned the oil passage match porting from working and blueprinting 2.2L turbo engines.  A 175bhp engine would gain 4hp when the oil passage into the block was filed slightly to remove some of the angle that the oil had to change to enter the block from the oil pump.  Discovering the 7% restriction at the block opening would cause a big difference in the performance of the engine's oiling system plus a hp gain because of less restriction! 
94
How-to section / Re: Built a fuel pump hanger..
« Last post by RTTTTed on October 03, 2016, 02:21:09 PM »
We ran up to 1390whp/1200wtq with steady fuel pressure with the pair of Walbro 450lph pumps. 
95
How-to section / Re: Wilwood 12.25 in brakes for 15 in rims on Viper rear
« Last post by RTTTTed on September 18, 2016, 01:24:02 PM »
Wheelwell Tire fitment is posted on this thread http://thevipergarage.com/index.php/topic,6032.0.html   (with pics)

To summarize: 28" tall tires fit inside the wheelwells with 1 5/8" space to inner plastic wheel tubs.  That should allow a 29.5" tall tire to fit within the plastic wheeltubs.  30" should be a fit if the plastic wheel tubs are replaced with aluminium sheet metal
96
How-to section / Re: Opening up Rear Wheelwells for Big tires
« Last post by RTTTTed on September 17, 2016, 10:37:59 PM »
After reshaping the rear wheelwells 355 x 30" x 19" Pirelli tires (27" tall) fit easily on the back of both my Viper GTSs.  I have 2" clearance from tire to wheel tubs

I ran my Hoosier 14.5 x 16 x 28" Hoosier wrinkle slicks and they no longer touch the inner plastic tubs.  I can fit a 2x4" between tire and wheel tubs which is 1.5" clearance.

My new 325 x 50 x 15" Mickey Thompson ET Street 'R' tires are 28.3" tall and again, a 2 x 4" flat will fit between the tire and wheeltubs/

97
How-to section / Re: DIY side exhaust
« Last post by RTTTTed on September 17, 2016, 10:17:40 PM »
I bought a set of beat up Gen 1 side sills and cut, then rolled the edge because my 4" exhaust pipe exit is oval and instead of being a sharp radius 90 degree bend my pipes were cut oval because they were  a 45 degree bend.  I wet sanded them (in the tub while showering) and sprayed them with Lacquer paint then rubbed the smooth parts of the sill creating the shine lacquer is famous for while leaving the contoured shape velvet finish.  Although not great they looked great on the car.

Standing beside the car while tuning it on the dyno made me decide to NOT stand beside the car's hot exhaust.  That also decided me that I needed to wear my helmet before listening to full throttle at boost. 
98
How-to section / Re: Wilwood 12.25 in brakes for 15 in rims on Viper rear
« Last post by RTTTTed on September 17, 2016, 06:28:27 PM »
I bought Mickey Thompson ET Street 'R' Drag Radials for my TT GTS for Shif Sector Halfmile event.  With the car on the dyno under boost at 1400whp the car squatted and the lower ball joints as well as the upper grease nipples touched and ground away some of my inner wheel barrel.  I removed the tires and ground the lower bal joints to the edge of the cotter pin holes.  We removed the upper grease nipples and chopped them short.  The right side still touched so I'll need to remove even more material from that lower ball joint.  Probably lock tite the nut and grind another 1/8" material off the nuts and shafts.  Not room for the cotter pins it seems.
99
RT/10 & GTS Viper Discussions / Re: MY TT GTS (Ted's)
« Last post by RTTTTed on September 17, 2016, 05:00:51 PM »
Saturday lineup was huge and it took us more than an hour to get in the gate.  We parked next to Calvo Motorsports at the end of the Apron and brought out the car.  Jason and CJ showed up and Jason looked over the tune then we added the Ice CJ brought us and I went out for a pass.  Half throttle and I gave it a little too much in second and third and spun the tires over revving in 2nd.  Granny shifting the run was 191+ mph.

We added a couple psi boost and ramped it to come in after 4500rpm to see if the start would be easier to control, but I missed 4th and ran 188mph.  Then I missed 5th and finally another full pass where I spun the tires but still managed to go 193mph which won second place to UGR's World record holding 6 spd class Lamborghini at 217mph.  He ran 177 and 204mph on Sunday.

Saturday night back at the Hotel we phoned Jason and he told Joel how to rewrite the map for the boost and we loaded that into the car for Sunday.

Sunday wasn't as busy and we got onto the runway early.  Missed 4th and ran 188mph (same as Sat.) with 1200whp.  I ran a few more times, missed 5tjh, then 6th and finally the shifting problem was obviously the transmission as 5th gear broke and there was no forward drive for the car.  It was a great event, we won 2nd place again on Sunday although AFTER trophy runs ended Speed Society Camaro (listed as 1450bhp) ran .3mph faster but he was too late to collect the trophy.  Owner is a professional skateboarder.  perhaps the US really is the land of opportunity as I can't imagine making a living riding a skateboard in Canada. 

We hooked Jason's (PSI) laptop to the Motec and reloaded the safe 1000whp program into the computer.  Jason has ordered me a UTC (communication adapter) for me from Australia so I will be able to load tunes and make adjustments as well as reading the data logs.  We detoured to PSI and dropped Jason's electronic equipment at his shop. 

Brought my car home and Reverse worked to back the monster into the garage.

100
RT/10 & GTS Viper Discussions / Re: MY TT GTS (Ted's)
« Last post by RTTTTed on September 15, 2016, 08:30:09 PM »
Dyno sheets from first visit to Portland Speed Industries.

Dyno sheet show 970whp which was hot and on pump gas.  Jason said that was OVER the 1000whp we dyno'd on the old AEM series 1 on pump gas at minimium boost at 13psi.  We then switched gas and started tuning for Race gas and more boost.

We got to 1307whp before Lean cut shut the engine off due to lack of fuel.

 Took tranny apart and reclearanced it.  It had .032 and .023" shims.  I measure both shafts at .015?, found a differential shim of 0.15" and cut a .015" bronze shim from shim stock the neighbor happened to have.  Reassembled the tranny and installed back in the car.  I cut and fitted straight 4" side pipes, straightened the Gen 1 side sills and spray painted them black, then installed them.

Joel decided to come along to Shift Sector and help out with my car.  We drove the 17 hrs to Portland Speed Industries (PSI) and bolted on an aftermarket speed sensor and bracket to the front wheel and hooked up the rear sensor and the transmission ground speed wires.  Too bad they didn't work!  We pulled the pump module and Joel switched out the triple 255lph Walbros for a pair of Walbro 450s that Jason (owner PSI) ordered and brought in for me.  Jason also brought in some new  K&N air filters so I got them changed as well.  Joel changed out the fuel pumps and we reinstalled the fuel pump module.  I'd replaced the main -10 fuel supply line from the tank to the Russell fuel filter, but bought a 7' piece of SS Braided -10 line and used my old Russell fittings to replace the new Hydraulic high pressure line which worked, but was .44" as compared to the -10 line of .55".  During this process we drained the pump gas and poured race gas into the tank. 

Next we took the car and strapped it down on the dyno.  Half a day later we had retuned the fuel maps to adjust the a/f ratio to a steady 11 to 1 A/F and with low (safe) timing we had attained 1390whp/1200wtq.  at 26psi.  Being a Greg Good designed engine build I had asked him what boost was safe and he replied that Viper engine have a tendency to "lift the heads" above 1450whp, so we stopped at 1390whp

We did some work to the wiring trying to get the CDL dash and M800 to communicate to which we had small successes.  Some features worked but many didn't.  We had drained the race gas and had the car back on the dyno to adjust the pump gas tune fuel/air maps while maintaining the 1000whp at low boost of 13psi.  Friday afternoon my Mickey Thompson tires arrived at PSi and thanks to CJ there we threw the front wheels and all 4 tires in my truck and took off to get the tires changed over.  Mickey Thompson 'comp' front tires and Mickey Thompson 325 x 50 x 15" Street 'R' Drag Radials.  One of the Drag raidals was bad.  Out of round and tread squirm.  Too bad there wasn't a week or two so we could have returned it, we threw it on the car and loaded the Viper into the trailer about 7:30pm then headed off to Salem to be closer to the Shift Sector event which started at 8am Saturday.

Here's the dyno before we left on Friday.  1390whp/1204wtq.  at 26psi.  The EBC was at 90% and Jason was worried that boost would go to 30psi next try but I told him that was far enough and we stopped there.  That means a bhp rating would be well over 1500bhp at the crankshaft. 

Jason wrote us a tune for 1100whp to start Saturday with a warmup pass and we ran 6R plugs gapped at .022" 





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