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The VIPER Garage  |  Vendor Area  |  Viper Specialty Performance  |  Gen-3 & 4 Pre-Made Stainless Steel Braided Oil Lines
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Author Topic: Gen-3 & 4 Pre-Made Stainless Steel Braided Oil Lines  (Read 3642 times)
Viper Specialty
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Viper Specialty Performance - HOME
« on: January 16, 2012, 03:06:15 PM »

We are now offering pre-made Gen-3 and 4 Oil Cooler Lines, as anyone who has a Gen-3 with a few miles on it surely knows how annoying the factory lines can be as they slowly seep oil all over the place... and that's a best case scenario. We have seen more than one that decided to disconnect itself or fail catastrophically, and cost the owner an engine.

These lines are full-swivel, and use 1-piece hose ends that do not require ORB-to-JIC adapters. These fittings do not flex and break, come loose, or wear out from engine torquing. While these types of hose ends are not cheap, they are the best we have used. We try to use them exclusively on our builds, both for oil and fuel lines. These lines are all Aeroquip Stainless Steel Braided- no off brands or knock-offs from us, EVER. The braided hoses are fitted with a black nylon abrasion sleeve so that they do not damage surrounding parts and finishes. All lines are "black" with red anodized hose ends.

Price is 295.00 per set, ready to be installed. Simply remove the original lines and quick-connect fittings, and screw these in place, no adapters needed.

To Order: http://viperspecialtyperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=196



« Last Edit: January 17, 2012, 01:06:23 PM by Viper Specialty » Logged
Dan Lesser, Owner
Viper Specialty Performance
Perfection. That is our only requirement.
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2012, 05:56:54 PM »

Sounds like a good upgrade.  I know of a couple failed/leaking oil lines.
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
shandon
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« Reply #2 on: January 24, 2012, 01:24:10 PM »

I will take a set! I have some oil around mine (seepage) but have just been to lazy to replace them. Since I have the car up on stands now I need to just do it. How hard are they to replace? I see the connections up top and those look like an easy removal/install. How hard is the connection on the engine side? (Gen3) Also is there any type of bleeding process with this?
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« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2012, 02:12:07 PM »

I will take a set! I have some oil around mine (seepage) but have just been to lazy to replace them. Since I have the car up on stands now I need to just do it. How hard are they to replace? I see the connections up top and those look like an easy removal/install. How hard is the connection on the engine side? (Gen3) Also is there any type of bleeding process with this?

Hey Shandon,

The Quick Connect lines are easy to remove; just pop off the black caps and spring clips with a screwdriver, pull them apart, and then you need a 1-1/4" socket to remove the quick connect fittings from the block and cooler. Make sure the quick-connect O-rings come off with the fittings.

The line install is also simple; just clean the ports, and screw then in place, starting with the rear [Rear engine side/front cooler side] line, then the other. You will need a 1-1/16" stubby wrench for the block fittings. It takes a little patience and hand maneuvering because of the oil pan being in the way, but its pretty straight forward otherwise.

I advise doing this during an oil change, as you need to remove the filter for access, and having the filter off gets a lof of the oil out of the block and OE lines that would otherwise make an even bigger mess.

No need to bleed the lines, they prime when the oil system primes as usual during any oil change.
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Dan Lesser, Owner
Viper Specialty Performance
Perfection. That is our only requirement.
www.ViperSpecialty.com
(716) 912-5336
shandon
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« Reply #4 on: January 25, 2012, 06:04:12 AM »

Hey Shandon,

The Quick Connect lines are easy to remove; just pop off the black caps and spring clips with a screwdriver, pull them apart, and then you need a 1-1/4" socket to remove the quick connect fittings from the block and cooler. Make sure the quick-connect O-rings come off with the fittings.

The line install is also simple; just clean the ports, and screw then in place, starting with the rear [Rear engine side/front cooler side] line, then the other. You will need a 1-1/16" stubby wrench for the block fittings. It takes a little patience and hand maneuvering because of the oil pan being in the way, but its pretty straight forward otherwise.

I advise doing this during an oil change, as you need to remove the filter for access, and having the filter off gets a lof of the oil out of the block and OE lines that would otherwise make an even bigger mess.

No need to bleed the lines, they prime when the oil system primes as usual during any oil change.

Thanks Dan! Look forward to seeing these soon. Just one of those pesky things that needs to be done.
« Last Edit: January 26, 2012, 05:19:07 AM by shandon » Logged
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« Reply #5 on: January 25, 2012, 11:21:20 PM »

I hate oil when it gets outside the engine/trans/cooler/diff     :-\
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
shandon
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« Reply #6 on: January 26, 2012, 05:22:16 AM »

I hate oil when it gets outside the engine/trans/cooler/diff     :-\

Agree  :hayes:
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« Reply #7 on: February 02, 2012, 08:31:21 AM »

Now after much knuckle busting and fowl language these babies are in. Yes those markings or should I say the "destressed look" on the connectors are to be badges of honor and in no way should one consider them marring or scratches :lol:

 I was able to manuver the coolant cables at an angle to make it all work and used both 90's up top (the corret way :D) The lines are a serious upgrade over the crap quick disconnect ones. You can see what my original lines looked like before.



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Viper Specialty
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Viper Specialty Performance - HOME
« Reply #8 on: February 02, 2012, 11:04:04 AM »

Haha, the "badges of honor" can be severely reduced if you wrap the wrenches and hose ends with masking tape, and replace it regularly during the process, removing only when needed. Unfortunately, they don't make any Aluminum AN wrenches in the correct size, or that would be the best way to go.

PS- I am going back and removing all of the posts where we were talking about different things to bring your post closer to the top, if you could, please do the same as its not going to be confusing...... unless you like it when it looks like you are talking to yourself, lol!
« Last Edit: February 02, 2012, 11:07:47 AM by Viper Specialty » Logged
Dan Lesser, Owner
Viper Specialty Performance
Perfection. That is our only requirement.
www.ViperSpecialty.com
(716) 912-5336
shandon
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« Reply #9 on: February 02, 2012, 11:17:37 AM »

Oh man who has the time and patient (for tape) to care about the looks of oil lines  :P.... my Viper is a "Go Car" not a "Show" Car so those are badges of honor for me  :lol:

No problem with the edit.  :goodjob:
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Viper Specialty
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Viper Specialty Performance - HOME
« Reply #10 on: February 02, 2012, 01:11:26 PM »

Oh man who has the time and patient (for tape) to care about the looks of oil lines  :P.... my Viper is a "Go Car" not a "Show" Car so those are badges of honor for me  :lol:

No problem with the edit.  :goodjob:

ME  :P

I have screws loose admittedly.

You are talking to the guy who would replace something that is scratched even if it is hidden and would never see the light of day  :D
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Dan Lesser, Owner
Viper Specialty Performance
Perfection. That is our only requirement.
www.ViperSpecialty.com
(716) 912-5336
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