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The VIPER Garage  |  Generation-specific Viper Forums  |  RT/10 & GTS Viper Discussions  |  ACR Engine Build
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Author Topic: ACR Engine Build  (Read 46755 times)
RTTTTed
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #75 on: September 20, 2013, 11:21:30 AM »

When I lived in Edmonton there was a "Indian Summer" every fall.  If it snows just wait for that week or two period.  I'm sure that it would be nice to get the engine broken in and some tuning on it.  If I was you (being conservative and old school) I'd run the big Paxton pulley to break in the engine and run it really nicely, then got to the big pulley and get the beast tuned. 

You already know to buy some Non-synthetic oil to break in the engine?  I ran 4000mi on mine and now am doing a full synthetic oil change with the SPECIALY designed Mopar oil filter.  I guess I'll need to order a case of the Viper filters from one of my friends down south next time I'm down there as they could be a week long wait from a Dodge Dealership here.

There $7 and here probably $20.   :lol:
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #76 on: September 20, 2013, 11:24:51 AM »

Shedlon, did you buy and instal a PartsRack trapdoor oilpan kit?  After seeing my rodbearings I added the trap door kit and got a lot of feedback that the trapdoor kit is a necessitity for drag racing as well as pretty much everything else.  If you havn't done it yet ... Call Jon and order one.  It only takes about 20 min to instal and about an hour and a half if you have to take the pan off your engine.  The oilpan gasket is reuseable so don't worry about that.
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #77 on: September 20, 2013, 11:26:43 AM »

Boost doesn't happen much until after 4k, so if I'm not redlining the car any the small pulley should be ok.
Yes, roger that on the break in oil.
There are so many changes, that the car won't run before the tune is changed. Will need a lot more fuel with the new valvetrain and way more airflow.
I have only run the viper filters on the truck and both cars. I got a case of them 3 years ago, down to one last filter now... better get more ordered.
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« Reply #78 on: September 20, 2013, 11:27:38 AM »

Shedlon, did you buy and instal a PartsRack trapdoor oilpan kit?  After seeing my rodbearings I added the trap door kit and got a lot of feedback that the trapdoor kit is a necessitity for drag racing as well as pretty much everything else.  If you havn't done it yet ... Call Jon and order one.  It only takes about 20 min to instal and about an hour and a half if you have to take the pan off your engine.  The oilpan gasket is reuseable so don't worry about that.

I did forget about that! I better get one ordered. Thanks Ted.
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #79 on: September 20, 2013, 11:36:17 AM »

An ordinary oil filter is OK for breakin.  Your car has the ACR pressure relief bypass valve (whichn we couldn't find) so you should have good oiling with the trapdoor kit. 

John Vittone is going to build an ACR bypass valve (just remove spring?) and we'll post a How To for everyone.
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #80 on: September 25, 2013, 10:19:49 PM »

Well guys, just an update.
Crower isn't done building the rocker arms yet, but the rest of the valvetrain is built and Tony (JTS Venom Performance) is ready to ship once rockers are done.
The engine is ready for the cam and the rest of the valvetrain.
My buddy picked me up tonight for a rip in his 92 Z-28 with a 406 with a procharger at 12 psi (710 RWHP) and WHOOOOOOOO BOY, I'm ready for my car to be on the road again now!
I'm really hoping to get the engine back in my garage on a cherry picker within 2-3 weeks, another 1-2 weeks until it's running and possibly some tuning, or at least hear that beast lope in the garage!!!!!
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« Reply #81 on: September 25, 2013, 10:46:42 PM »

Actually I guess you could use the stock stuff to start your car and break it in, then install the aftermarket rockers and pushrods later.

Wishing for it to come together for you quickly Sheldon.

« Last Edit: September 25, 2013, 10:56:57 PM by RTTTTed » Logged
1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #82 on: September 26, 2013, 03:15:41 PM »

Actually I guess you could use the stock stuff to start your car and break it in, then install the aftermarket rockers and pushrods later.

Wishing for it to come together for you quickly Sheldon.

Thanks Ted! The stock pushrods won't work with this cam, and the cam was designed for 1.7 ratio rockers. I will have to wait unfourtunately, but at this point there really isn't any rush I suppose.
I have the itch to go fast now and it was 0 degrees this morning, and got up to 8 today haha. Winter is coming and I guess that means the turbo sled will give my speed fix for the next 7 months.  :driving:
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« Reply #83 on: September 26, 2013, 03:32:56 PM »

I would guess that although everything would make more power and be faster ... stock should still get 'er broke in and if alignment is good (stock deck height and head depth) it would be OK until about 5000rpm ... then perhaps have problems (depending on valve springs.  But ... if you can wait ...   :hayes:

I had a Challenger R/T that came with a new engine.  No one could figure out what was wrong with it.  Under WOT the engine would shut off at 4200rpm and not start for about 20 minutes.  I installed .020" washers under the stock rocker shafts and the car fired right up and never quit at WOT again.  Shaved heads and Decked block ...  Once the oil pressure pumped up the hyd lifters the valves couldn't close and the engine would shut off.
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #84 on: September 26, 2013, 07:14:49 PM »

I would guess that although everything would make more power and be faster ... stock should still get 'er broke in and if alignment is good (stock deck height and head depth) it would be OK until about 5000rpm ... then perhaps have problems (depending on valve springs.  But ... if you can wait ...   :hayes:

I had a Challenger R/T that came with a new engine.  No one could figure out what was wrong with it.  Under WOT the engine would shut off at 4200rpm and not start for about 20 minutes.  I installed .020" washers under the stock rocker shafts and the car fired right up and never quit at WOT again.  Shaved heads and Decked block ...  Once the oil pressure pumped up the hyd lifters the valves couldn't close and the engine would shut off.

The new cam is over 1/2" more lift, so it would certainly bend factory pushrods. Would not be worth the $10,000 gamble lol.
I want to drive it so bad, but will not take a chance with the amount of money into this thing so far.
It's pretty cool how such a small change (that 0.020" washer) can make sure a big difference!
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« Reply #85 on: September 26, 2013, 10:35:49 PM »

The new cam is over 1/2" more lift, so it would certainly bend factory pushrods. Would not be worth the $10,000 gamble lol.
I want to drive it so bad, but will not take a chance with the amount of money into this thing so far.
It's pretty cool how such a small change (that 0.020" washer) can make sure a big difference!

Sorry ... ?  more than 1.0" lift?  Depending on head porting that would shrink your valve guides to not enough??
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #86 on: September 27, 2013, 09:22:25 AM »

I typo'd, sorry.
The new cam is .601 lift. Even a stage one Crower Viper cam is only .504" lift.
That and we went to 1.7 R.R. Lot more lift than stock but not half an inch lol.
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« Reply #87 on: September 27, 2013, 09:51:31 AM »

Yah, I figured.  What's the duration?  The stock heads have about .54" lift at the valve before the retainers hit the valve seals requiring the guides to be remachine for more life.  104 - 106 degree cam centerline I'd guess.
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #88 on: September 28, 2013, 09:06:57 AM »

Yah, I figured.  What's the duration?  The stock heads have about .54" lift at the valve before the retainers hit the valve seals requiring the guides to be remachine for more life.  104 - 106 degree cam centerline I'd guess.

its a 114 seperation and 240/250 duration at .050.
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« Reply #89 on: September 28, 2013, 09:22:35 AM »

 :D  That's a lot of camshaft.  Probably not going to help your mileage much.  You stayed with the hydraulic lifters or did you convert them to solid lifters?
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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