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The VIPER Garage  |  Generation-specific Viper Forums  |  RT/10 & GTS Viper Discussions  |  ACR Engine Build
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Author Topic: ACR Engine Build  (Read 46761 times)
jtin
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« Reply #45 on: September 05, 2013, 09:23:10 PM »

Any and all oil mods are worth the effort. Especially when the motor is out and at the machine shop.

It is suppose to help deliver more volume to the bearings.  The gen 4 mod is just a small cut along the moon of the mains oil hole. Are gen 2/3 have just a drilled hole. Gen 4 has a hole with a slit on one side of the hole. Simple mod for a machine shop.
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #46 on: September 05, 2013, 11:15:24 PM »

Sheldon, what did your rod bearings look like when you took the engine apart?
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« Reply #47 on: September 05, 2013, 11:46:22 PM »

Thanks Joel! I will read up on that ASAP!
Ted, the bearing on the broken piston had indication of detonation.
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #48 on: September 06, 2013, 12:40:21 AM »

Thanks Joel! I will read up on that ASAP!
Ted, the bearing on the broken piston had indication of detonation.

Was it #3?
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #49 on: September 06, 2013, 08:51:36 AM »

Was it #3?

Shoot, I'm not positive... let me check a picture quick..
Ok, it was passenger side, second slug in from the front.
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jtin
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« Reply #50 on: September 06, 2013, 09:03:27 AM »

That's #4. Same journal but I don't think it get the double cross drill like # 3 gets.
Still doesn't surprise me
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BADACR
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« Reply #51 on: September 06, 2013, 09:22:16 AM »

That's #4. Same journal but I don't think it get the double cross drill like # 3 gets.
Still doesn't surprise me

It wasn't an oiling issue at all, that slug got hammered down before TDC and caused some havoc.
I opened the nitrous up for the first time, and from what I can tell, it sprayed fuel only on one side of the engine.
The valves on one side were white, and the other side were black (same with plugs of course).
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« Reply #52 on: September 06, 2013, 11:17:52 AM »

So one fogger injector was plugged?  Single solenoids right?  I've never even heard of that happening before.  That sucks.

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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #53 on: September 06, 2013, 11:23:15 AM »

Stupid nitrous. I think they were wired incorrectly. Same as how the battery would always go dead, and it was the electric bottle opener was always "on".
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« Reply #54 on: September 06, 2013, 11:38:21 AM »

Wired wrong wouldn't matter.  The wiring only went to the solenoids so if one side got fuel it was also there for the other side.  The injector is the mostly likely to plug up,  the line is possible but it's pretty large sized hole.  The smallest opening is the jets in the fogger nozzle. 

So the bottle opener had a fried switch?  That was the switch under the hatch?
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #55 on: September 06, 2013, 11:51:01 AM »

The guy that wired the switch panel in the console of the car. The bottle opener had constant power (the wires were reversed on the switch, so off was actually on).
I think the same for the nitrous, the switch was backwards in that the nitrous solenoid fired, but fuel did not.
Either way, it didn't work and has to be re-wired and tested before it gets dyno tuned for spray.
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« Reply #56 on: September 06, 2013, 12:00:51 PM »

Didn't the switch in the hatch arm the system?  If the switch in the console was wired wrong ...  Oops that would be me.

The solenoids worked off of 1 wire, not two (in the car).  solenoid power wires must always be soldered together so that they only work together.  I wired the switches.  If one side of engine got fuel then the fuel solenoid was working fine.  Both sides of the engine come from the T at the solenoid.  I didn't check the wiring in the engine comparment, but think I remember the fuel lines both screwing to the T which is into the solenoid.  .
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #57 on: September 06, 2013, 12:28:21 PM »

Here's a pic.  Your solenoids are on the frame but the same system and the same installer.




You'll need to undo the fuel line to the bad side of the engine and the fogger nozzle and blow them clean.  There's a Jet under the fuel line where it's screwed into the fogger nozzle and you probably want smaller jets that the 200hp ones that are in there. 

There is probably a residue build up from sitting so long (varnish). 

The solenoids should actually be mounted above the nozzles so that when you're not using the NOS the fuel drains out of the system ... although they sure don't worry about that on "hidden" systems.
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #58 on: September 09, 2013, 08:35:04 AM »

I will go through it for sure, and won't play with it again until it's on a dyno so we can monitor closely and tune it properly.
I should have known better than to just "try it" without knowing more about it, but... well... you know... sometimes a guy just wants to spray some nitrous! haha
The cylinder heads should be done this week, and hopefully pistons and rods will arrive this week as well.
If the engine is buttoned up within the next 2 weeks, and I can get everything re-installed within another two weeks I just might get to try the car out before snow flies!
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« Reply #59 on: September 09, 2013, 11:13:11 AM »

Ted, which shop does the intake manifold honing in Edmonton? I should look into that while I have stuff there.
Thanks!
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