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The VIPER Garage  |  Generation-specific Viper Forums  |  RT/10 & GTS Viper Discussions  |  Options for sway bar bushings and control arm bushings ?
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Author Topic: Options for sway bar bushings and control arm bushings ?  (Read 4330 times)
RTTTTed
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #15 on: December 09, 2010, 12:47:11 AM »

Factory bushings are good, but a compromise.  Poly bushings are much stiffer and handle better that's why some people buy performance bushings like the ones above.  I think that the swaybar bushings are a good idea if you want a little better handling.  Suspension bushings would need replacement if racing a lot.  Most people are happy with stock, but some of us ( 8)like you and me) keep improving things.  I like the idea that a stiffer suspension bushing will react faster than a softer one.

Truth is that the stock bushings are probably good past 100,000miles for normal use.  I've seen people buy the poly bushings because they like the color??? 

The instal would be to remove the sway bar and replace the bushings then reinstal.  A arm suspension bushings are very difficult.  Archer says that for perfection they custom build the Delrin bushings and instal each individually.  Expensive, but I'm sure it's a 'must' for racing - if you want to win?

I'm going to do my swaybar bushings and leave the rest alone.

Ted
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
CWhiteRun
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« Reply #16 on: December 09, 2010, 01:31:36 AM »

I'm interested to see if the poly bushings in the rear A-arms would help with wheel hop issues.  I know the rear end delrin bushings in the RX-7 world do help eliminate a lot of that.  I also feel that my bushings could use replacing by now considering that Dave kept the car on many a road course....not to mention I crossed 75k miles not too long ago.
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ArcherRacing
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« Reply #17 on: December 09, 2010, 07:30:27 AM »

Going with a urethane sway bar bushing is a good upgrade for a few reasons. They are stiffer than the stock rubber bushings, for better handling and so forth. But yet not too stiff that it gives a really bad or "bumpy" ride. (That of course depends on the "grade" of urethane they are made with.) Urethane will also not crack, get over hard, or fall apart over time as much as the stock rubber ones do. Also having the ability to be greased is a MAJOR plus over the stock ones, so they will not dry out over time. For street cars in my opinion they are more of a good preventative maintenance item then a performance upgrade. And they are very easy to replace by yourself. Just loosen both sides, then replace one side at a time, and don't forget to grease.

Jeremy
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plumcrazy
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« Reply #18 on: December 24, 2010, 08:54:23 AM »

anyone have any install tips, pics, DIY ?
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RTTTTed
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #19 on: December 24, 2010, 12:24:42 PM »

I'll do that after the holidays.

Ted
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #20 on: December 26, 2010, 07:17:28 PM »

good thread

and what baz said  :-\
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ViperTony
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« Reply #21 on: January 04, 2011, 03:10:48 PM »

You should also consider the billet steering bushings from DC Performance while you're under the Viper. I have a set but haven't gotten to installing them yet.
http://dcperformance.com/Products/147.html
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'01 RT/10, Belanger Headers, Hi-Flow Cats, Catback,T&D, Greg Good Custom Cam & Heads, 10.5:1 CR
RTTTTed
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #22 on: January 04, 2011, 04:53:05 PM »

Ahhh, those are the 'bushings for the steering rack I believe.  Forgot about them.

Good post.

Ted
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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