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The VIPER Garage  |  Generation-specific Viper Forums  |  RT/10 & GTS Viper Discussions  |  Very bottom lip of fascia
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Author Topic: Very bottom lip of fascia  (Read 2868 times)
plumcrazy
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« on: December 13, 2010, 09:53:00 AM »

I know dimitrios grinded or cut it off and had no issues and he drives like i do. Has anyone else taken it off and what are your feelings on doing it ?

did it effect high speed handling (150mph +)

with all the talk lately about Aero on these cars, i got me wondering since id like to redo my fascia and wanted to do this mod. it sure tkaes a beating on my driveway and is half grinded off already....lol

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BOTTLEFED
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« Reply #1 on: December 13, 2010, 10:12:41 AM »

Phil,
mine looked the same as yours.  I repaired it with some fiberglass on the back to hold it together and to reinforce it.  But I ended up grinding a 1/2" off the entire bottom of the fascia to make a front splitter.  Well, my car is on Eibachs and there is no ground clearance and the splitter met a quick end when I drove over a cattle guard at 50mph.  The bottom is still ground off and its great because now I don't scrape on every manhole cover I drive over (true story).  If your car is lowered, I say do it.  I haven't felt any negative effects from it so far.  I don't get my car up past 150 as regularly as you though ;)
I do plan to make another splitter.  It looked awesome.  Don't ask for pics.  It didn't even survive long enough to get any :(
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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
plumcrazy
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« Reply #2 on: December 13, 2010, 10:23:47 AM »

thats not my car, just used the pic for reference.

mines lowered a little over an inch and i hit as often as you do it sounds.

got a good pic of the bottom without the lip ?
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #3 on: December 13, 2010, 11:49:06 AM »

My ACR was adjusted (race Konis) really low and would even scape while driving dow nthe highway.  Paint was damaged and the chin was cracked on both sides.  I adjusted the height up about an inch and a half to my Eibach height and then pulled the nose and took it into the body shop for repair and paint.  They plastic welded the cracks - which is the proper way to fix it.  Cost was only $300 for "below the belt line" (bottom 6").

The chinspoiler is a small airdam that works perfectly with a Roe front fascia scoop.  The curve of the nose and airdam build air pressure and the Roe duct gives the air another pathway that is less restrictive through the radiator.  The Roe Racing fascia kit also comes with a 'tin' plate that stops the air from 'uncompressing' behind the radiator.  Removing air from under the car also increases downforce.

That's the way I went. 

For the street front splitters should maybe be made out of plywood so there is something that destroys easier?  Easy to build and keep spares in the garage?  My cars have many scrapes and it takes a special wheel alignment tool to do our cars because the nose is so long.  A front splitter would live longer if it came apart (like the new ACR) or adjusted high for street and then lower the front of the splitter once getting over the speed bumps going into the Road course?

Ted
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
ViperTony
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« Reply #4 on: December 13, 2010, 12:34:00 PM »

Dumb question: Wouldn't installing a splitter negate the need for Roe's front fascia duct for cooling? I'd imagine the splitter is forcing more air through the fascia. I'm thinking about doing a GTR-style front splitter but I'm going to mock it up in black foam board first.
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #5 on: December 13, 2010, 01:57:00 PM »

Yes.  A front splitter cover the entire front of the car and will direct the air into the grille opening or over the car, obviously the best choice for racing.  But they suck on the street where there are bumps rocks, ignorant speed bumps, curbs, gutters, potholes, "cattleguards" and driveways.  Usually the gutters are to direct water in cities with curbs etc. but sometimes driveways get retarded.  I may have an issue or two with driveway snow here



The Roe Racing front fascia scoop does absolutely nothing to the height or ground clearance of the car and is invisible.  No disadvantages (except for the oil coolers exposure) and all good.  The front splitter can be custom made as the racing 1" ground clearance and massive front extention sure wouldn't last long on the street.

It might be a good idea to figure someway to make some bolts (plastic?  low grade aluminium bolts?) that break off the car with any car damage.


The Roe is a compromise.  A great improvement without clearance issues, but no replacement for a racing splitter.
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« Reply #6 on: December 13, 2010, 01:59:58 PM »

Tony, I am also using the Roe ducting kit.  I had it on when I did the front splitter.  Since I left about 1/2" of the lip, there was a gap between the splitter and the fascia.  I believe the air trapped in that gap was forced into the Roe duct.  Seemed like a good explanation anyway.  I never had it over 125mph with the splitter though.  

Ted, I made mine out of ABS plastic.  Its pretty cheap, but not incredibly easy to fab up.  

If you look up OverZealous on the VA, there are some pics of the front splitter he made.  I used a very similar design and mounting system.  I have been working on this for a couple years now.  The splitter I made was last spring.  If you find my vid of the races in "mexico" I posted in the racing section, you can see it on the car in some of the shots.

Phil, I forgot your car is silver  lol!  :P
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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
ViperTony
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« Reply #7 on: December 13, 2010, 02:05:59 PM »

I only asked about the front fascia duct because I'm considering a splitter and I already have a duct kit installed. First, I have to see if a splitter looks good on an RT/10 before committing to anything.
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #8 on: December 13, 2010, 02:35:00 PM »

What thickness ABS and where do you buy it in sheets?

Similar to Lexan?

As long as you don't cut the duct hole the splitter will block the airflow and it will be as "if it's not there". 

An advantage with the splitter is that you can use turnbuckles and make it adjustable so that it can be lowered on a racetrack where you could probably drive with a 12 nose extention because the track and area is made for that.  I think the ACR designed removable front splitter is awesome!  If I ever got to drive at 90+ more than a few minutes at a time, I would be interested if designing and building one. 

Looks are subjective Tony.  Tape some colored cardboard and decided if you like it.  Some people will like it and others will jut go with "Ricer" comments.  Personally, I think the Viper doesn't need any spoilers to look racy - it comes that way.  If a spoiler is called for there are 2 kinds the wing (Venom style) and the WING (ACR and GTSR).  I like the looks of the rear VENOM spoiler as it fits into the 'form of the car.  Just my opinion, but the Venom wing really sets the car "off" from other Vipers.  I bought a cf Hennessey spoiler for my Sapphire GTS and when I bought my 2000 ACR it came with a Venom spoiler already installed.


I know that the spoiler works because the gas mileage goes down more than a mpg on the ACR between 55 and 100mph.  My Roe car runs 20mph at 55 and at 90mph. 

I also got an email when I bought the ACR and drove it back through bad weather, "That spoiler sure helps keep the car straight when hydroplaning through massive rainstorms."
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« Reply #9 on: December 14, 2010, 08:30:47 AM »

I used 1/4" black ABS
I bought it at a plastics supplier in UT
I think it was $70 for a 4'x 8' sheet
I only got 1 splitter out of it though
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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #10 on: December 14, 2010, 01:15:51 PM »

That leaves you with a ton of material to build canards out of?

Ted
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
ViperTony
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« Reply #11 on: December 14, 2010, 01:23:14 PM »

Looks are subjective Tony.  Tape some colored cardboard and decided if you like it.  Some people will like it and others will jut go with "Ricer" comments.  Personally, I think the Viper doesn't need any spoilers to look racy - it comes that way.  If a spoiler is called for there are 2 kinds the wing (Venom style) and the WING (ACR and GTSR).  I like the looks of the rear VENOM spoiler as it fits into the 'form of the car.  Just my opinion, but the Venom wing really sets the car "off" from other Vipers.  I bought a cf Hennessey spoiler for my Sapphire GTS and when I bought my 2000 ACR it came with a Venom spoiler already installed.

I have the Mopar rear spoiler for the RT/10 and I think a splitter, as well as side splitters, would look great. I don't really care what anyone else thinks. I also want this to be a DIY project for me over the winter here. I ordered some foamboard and will mock up the parts over holiday vacation. For me this is more of a look thing than a functional one though I do want these components to work together safely when I'm on the track 3-4 times a year.
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #12 on: December 14, 2010, 07:35:08 PM »

I would guess that you have the "ductail" and not a wing?  Less downforce with the ducktail.  I agree with you that the car needs to be balanced front and rear.  Guessing that you'd want a smaller front splitter than what's required for the wing rear spoiler. 

The front canards (according to the srt engineers) are good for about 100 lbs.  Looking at wind tunnel diagrams of the canards effects I always thought the canards were to cuase `scrambled air`along the sides of the car helping smooth the airflow and sucking undercar air through the wheelwells, past the brake rotors and pulling underhood air from our side vents.

I don`t think I see anyway that the sidesplitters do anything except keep rocks and undercar air away from the skin or the car.

Ted
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #13 on: January 13, 2011, 05:48:46 PM »

I ground mine off on my 94.Still trying to come up with a splitter that will function properly on a gen I.
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #14 on: January 13, 2011, 05:53:48 PM »

I thought the Gen 1 Gen 2 differences were in the hood, dash, wheels, susp, engine etc?  What differences is there in the nose/bumpercover?

Have you called JonB or Archer to see what's available?

Ted
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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