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The VIPER Garage  |  Generation-specific Viper Forums  |  RT/10 & GTS Viper Discussions  |  My New Custom Belanger Headers
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Author Topic: My New Custom Belanger Headers  (Read 3452 times)
ViperTony
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« on: December 13, 2010, 02:03:41 PM »

Let me start off by saying, I don't believe there's anything wrong with Belanger Headers. I've had my share of frustrations with leaks most likely caused by me when overtorquing the bolts at the flanges AND/OR when my ex-tuner decided to torch the turnout when welding in a WBO sensor because he couldn't figure out how to remove the side sill to get to the WBO bung already installed at the turnout.  My last leak was caused by the latter. I decided to replace the turnouts that warped so I called Lou. Lou helped me with a leak 2 years ago so he was familar with me.  I asked to purchase new turnouts and after listening to what I was doing he pitched me a new design idea that he wanted to try out. This was something he told me about 2 years ago but he didn't have time to create a jig for it back then.

Let's start with the O2 sensor location(s). Lou and I agree to disagree on whether an O2 located in a primary tube (current design) or collector (my request) is best. Lou swears the single tube location is optimal, I believe the collector is. So I asked him to install them in both locations:

I asked for the bung to be placed on top of the merge collector just under the heat shield and it was measured so it will clear the frame. Most likely, I will need to cut out a hole in the heat shield if the sensor contacts it after installation. The second design change (as a result of the 02 in the merge collector) is that the pickle is now smaller....a mini pickle:


The major change Lou did for my headers was installing a slip-fit tube at the Y-collectors. The tube protrudes about 1/4":

Lou's idea behind this tube is that when mated with the collector it will be sealed from both the inside and obviously outside via the standard flange. Even if I'm able to over-torque the bolts again...and bend the ears...the connection should still be leak-proof.

Lou has taken customer service to a whole new level...he's amazing. These headers are a work of art and well worth it. I don't know if he's going to offer this design or not for the masses but I'm happy to test it for him. I think Lou really outdid himself and he went above and beyond what I asked for. He's a class act and I'm a Belanger customer for life!

Lou has the jig built for this and I believe will build it if asked.

« Last Edit: February 04, 2012, 03:03:39 AM by RTTTTed » Logged
'01 RT/10, Belanger Headers, Hi-Flow Cats, Catback,T&D, Greg Good Custom Cam & Heads, 10.5:1 CR
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #1 on: December 13, 2010, 03:48:29 PM »

I had a set of slightly used Belangers years ago and they were the grey color.  I was going to upgrade from my TNT's to the Belangers and decided that it was too much work so I resold them.  They went to a good home. 

I think that the Jethot coating (in and out for heat dissipation) needs to be 'tempered' and that is why teh color turns grey?

Ted
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
plumcrazy
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« Reply #2 on: December 13, 2010, 05:38:08 PM »

mine are older gray bellangers too. The slip fit tube is sweet

you posers like the shiny stuff... :)

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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #3 on: December 13, 2010, 05:52:40 PM »

Yah, but only for 500 miles I think.
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
CWhiteRun
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« Reply #4 on: December 14, 2010, 03:22:54 AM »

Why not just make the connections V-band?  The tubes are small but the clamps are out there and wouldn't cost a whole lot to get done...I'm considering giving it a whack when I get back home.
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Steve 00RT/10
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« Reply #5 on: December 14, 2010, 05:44:08 AM »

Let me start off by saying, I don't believe there's anything wrong with Belanger Headers. I've had my share of frustrations with leaks most likely caused by me when overtorquing the bolts at the flanges AND/OR when my ex-tuner decided to torch the turnout when welding in a WBO sensor because he couldn't figure out how to remove the side sill to get to the WBO bung already installed at the turnout.  My last leak was caused by the latter. I decided to replace the turnouts that warped so I called Lou. Lou helped me with a leak 2 years ago so he was familar with me.  I asked to purchase new turnouts and after listening to what I was doing he pitched me a new design idea that he wanted to try out. This was something he told me about 2 years ago but he didn't have time to create a jig for it back then.

Let's start with the O2 sensor location(s). Lou and I agree to disagree on whether an O2 located in a primary tube (current design) or collector (my request) is best. Lou swears the single tube location is optimal, I believe the collector is. So I asked him to install them in both locations:



I asked for the bung to be placed on top of the merge collector just under the heat shield and it was measured so it will clear the frame. Most likely, I will need to cut out a hole in the heat shield if the sensor contacts it after installation. The second design change (as a result of the 02 in the merge collector) is that the pickle is now smaller....a mini pickle:

Lou has taken customer service to a whole new level...he's amazing. These headers are a work of art and well worth it. I don't know if he's going to offer this design or not for the masses but I'm happy to test it for him. I think Lou really outdid himself and he went above and beyond what I asked for. He's a class act and I'm a Belanger customer for life!

Lou has the jig built for this and I believe will build it if asked.




Nice looking work!

I have never had an issue with our Belanger headers....10 years/88,000 miles.  We might well be the single owner high miler Belanger in the country.  I've only checked the header bolts a couple times over the duration...getting a 1/2 or so out of a few...not many.  Never had a leak.  The 2nd set of mufflers have lasted 55,000 miles to date and are still good. It is testament to the fine product the Belanger’s have been making since the late 50’s I believe.  I think the Lou we talk to is 2nd generation?  I have a friend is AZ whose 2003 Viper was the proto type for GEN III Belangers.  His car was the first to get Belangers on a GEN III I believe.

A couple years ago,  when I had the situation with the single tube location and running extremely rich, I called and talked to him at length.  He was of the same opinion as he told you about the single tube. With all due respect to Lou and his excellent product…..his opinion has to be wrong as concerns closed loop operation on a gas engine.  If his thinking was correct, then there would no reason not to put wide bands in a single tube as well.  I know of no one that recommends that.  The only reason it was moved to the single tube was to stop MIL lights on 00-02 cars.  Had a quicker heating O2 sensor been known of at  the time…….I believe that would have been the fix.

The bung location you requested looks to be the same place he put them before the MIL problem.  From experience, I found it a good idea to rebend the heat shield plates above there for a little more room….especially the driver’s side due to engine TQ.

Steve
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CWhiteRun
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« Reply #6 on: December 14, 2010, 06:26:59 AM »

Also, if a widband O2 is put that close to the head it will significantly reduce it's life span.  I made the mistake of putting one into the stock O2 location a few years ago and the sensor was toast within a days time.
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ViperTony
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« Reply #7 on: December 14, 2010, 12:19:53 PM »

The bung location you requested looks to be the same place he put them before the MIL problem.  From experience, I found it a good idea to rebend the heat shield plates above there for a little more room….especially the driver’s side due to engine TQ.

Steve

Lou explained the change of location, actually removal, of that bung location. I had him put it back in, LOL. I cut a whole in the heat shield directly over the bung location to allow the O2 to protrude through it. I could've bent it too, good idea. I should state that I installed these headers during my build back in August. 3K miles since and no issues (not that I was expecting any). Also Steve, you once posted that you moved your O2 wiring harness to not interfere with the AC condensor so that enough slack is created to extend the O2 harness without having to splice into it. By doing so, it gave me more than enough slack to connect to this new bung location.  :2thumbsup:
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'01 RT/10, Belanger Headers, Hi-Flow Cats, Catback,T&D, Greg Good Custom Cam & Heads, 10.5:1 CR
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