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Author Topic: MY Roe GTS with Pics  (Read 16650 times)
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« Reply #75 on: June 03, 2015, 02:19:17 PM »

Entire front of car smashed into the RF tire.  Being f'glass and plastic it flexed most of the way back to shape.  Headlight was smashed out of mounts and the top of the lens is broken.  Front bumper cover has 2 cuts in it and 30% of hood feels like a rubber mat it bends so easily.  Much of the bottom hood structure is full of cracks.  Even the Mopar vinyl bra is full of Deer hairs


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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #76 on: June 15, 2015, 12:02:59 PM »

I told the bodyshop that since they are classed "Express" by our Governement insurance corp if I sue, I need to sue them.  I also advised him that when the bodywork shows through I will be back asking for a new hood again. 

They called today and asked me to take the car somewhere else. 

Couldn't find any local shops that have fixed Vipers so I called (cough) Corvette Specialties and spoke to their bodyman.  He went into detail on repairing Gen 1/2 Viper hoods.  He bakes them in an oven 3 to 4 times during the repair process.  He is the Vancouver Chrysler dealership Viper repair under warrantly shop.  My car is going to go on a 500 mile journey for repairs. 

I was getting so frustrated that I had planned to drive the 400miles to bring my car home instead of letting the shop work on it.  The bodyshop owner refused to even speak with the people that I had lined up to talk with him. 

If my car is getting paintwork done, I might as well repaint the rest of the car.  The paint on the car was good and if paint goes on the car it should be done to the entire car, not just the front half.

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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #77 on: July 03, 2015, 02:59:29 PM »

Victory!  ICBC is going to pay for my NEW HOOD!  Apparently the first bodyshop guesstimated less than half the time required to repair my hood.  Our clamshell hoods are 3 layers thick and the original repair time would barely have covered the top layer's repair.  Couble that for choping and separating the 2 other layers of hood and repairing them.  AND, most importantly, the hood would show the repair and never have been "as good as new/before"!  Yippee, my Sapphire Viper will be repaired to better than new condition! 
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #78 on: August 27, 2015, 10:34:27 PM »

Stopped at the bodyshop and checked out the progress.

Front bumper cut and tears are plastic welded and looks perfect.  The side sills were also in primer.  Glenn asked if he could spray rock guard on the bottom of the sills and I said I like the idea. 

The rear end is prepped and ready for paint as well.  The bodyman walked over to the box with the new headlight and asked why there was 2 left headlights.  Oops, I missed that and shipped the left one back while Larry shipped the right one to Sumas for me.  Hoping they don`t hit me up for another 12% taxes for the new headlight crossing the border ... again. 

The new hood was mounted and the bodyman complained about the amount of time it took to fit and adjust it.  I did warn them to make sure that they got extra time to adjust it properly (they didn`t).



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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #79 on: September 26, 2015, 06:47:23 PM »

Car is painted.  Owner asked for patience as one of his prep guys quit.  I told him week after next I'll come and trade him my Pickup to repair (driver's side Deer) and drive the Sapphire GTS home to park for winter. 

I paid extra for rear, hatch, quarter and roof to be painted as well as the rest of the car that insurance covered.  Most panels were removed and painted and are now waiting to go back onto car.  Front end still needs to be checked for cracks and alignment since it had a shimmy coming home after the Deer.  I've had reports that the car looks awesome.  They even removed the rear diffuser blades and painted them Black ...   
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #80 on: October 10, 2015, 12:57:53 PM »

 :2thumbsup:  Sapphire GTS is home, washed and parked in shop.  Ièm hoping I will get the 14 inch Roe Racing lightweight front Brake kit installed and the 13 inch Gen 2 FRONT brakes installed on the rear using the IPSCO brake adapters I bought from PartsRack.com before Winter shutdown. 

Driving the Viper home from Raincouver was a pain.  Rush hour traffic on Thurs 40 miles out of Vancouver ruined my day when I ran out of gas and ended up walking 2 miles in a tropical rain storm to buy a gas can and gallon of gas. 

The last picture is unusual because of all the purple reflection of the pearle.  I could only get 2 shots of this Hue. 

Car has a shimmy between 70 and 80mph and seemed to have the slightest pull to the left when driving through puddles on the hwy.  I tried to get a wheel alignment during the 500mile drive home, but all the shops I tried were too busy or did not have the proper equipment to do a Viper with 18s and 19 inch tires.  Drive 900 miles to and from a wheel alignment next year I suppose.  Weather is getting bad so summer is over.  Only 1 trip (to and from bodyshop) this year. 

But the car looks spectacular with the new paint.  Better than new, again. 


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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #81 on: October 13, 2015, 12:12:53 AM »

 :D  Took car outside into sunshine and went over the paint.  One or two minor spots to be polished out still.  Paint color looks amazing in the sun. 

The actual Color of this paint is Black with Pearlescent Blue flakes.  The Blue is called a Hue and an 'effect' .  At night and on cloudy days the car is normally just Black with the silver stripes.  My stripes are now under the clear coat.

I was offered a show car quality extra wet sand and extra clear coat for another $6000.  I had to turn it down but the car is obviously show car quality even without that and what is classed as "Factory Quality".  Beautiful. 

The insurance paid for the new hood and the paint to the back of the doors.  I paid extra to get the back of the car painted as well.


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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #82 on: December 13, 2015, 11:38:27 AM »

RPM Rollbar is a recognized rollbar company in Oregon.  They make Rollbar kits for most cars but recently found out the Gen 3 bar doesn't fit the Gen 2.  They asked for a Viper GTS to develop programs and jigs to have a Gen 2 Viper kit.  I volunteered MY Sapphire GTS.  I towed my Viper for 15 hours (plus another 4 hours each way for traffic jams) to deliver my Viper to Oregon.  RPM is currently working with my car now.  Once they finish the bar they will be shooting some pics, then I'll bring the beast home.

The 6 point cage with removable sidebars is an extra safety feature as well as being required for nearly all high speed competition classes in every type of racing.  The owner and I discussed design characteristics and NHRA rules (screw NHRA bandits when their rules cause people to NOT install cages and rollbars because sometimes their rules require car interiors to be chopped up needlessly.  Their rules were made for flat sided door panels and antique cars, not cars designed for 200mph+ performance. 

Purpose of a cage is to strengthen the cars structure and prevent personal injury in case of a crash or rollover.  The other positive aspects of the cage is that it strengthens the cars structure and prevents wasting horsespower when torque twists the body and chassis under acceleration.  When NHRA first required 6 point rollcages for fast street cars I installed a 2" pipe rollcage into my Coronet R/T and although I'd added well over 100# my car was .2 sec quicker in the quarter mile!

Although a safety feature, the roll bar also is a performance upgrade.  Modern cars are all designed with their unibody structure incorporating rollcage designs built into the structure and chassis.  Stiffer chassis not only means superior protection, but better handling and quicker response to driver controls.

With removable side bars there is no reason NOT to install a roll cage into your performance car.  Each succeeding Generation has better handling because the factory has engineered ways to increase the Viper's rigidity for the handling and horsepower increases.  Adding a 6 point cage to my older 2001 Viper GTS fits my plans to improve the handling and performance as well as added safety.  The cage will also allow me to compete in the faster speed classes I plan to compete in.
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« Reply #83 on: January 06, 2016, 01:55:24 PM »

James and Gary designed a Rollbar that conforms to all my requirements.  The side bars are removable, they swing open at the rear for exiting the car and they are mounted at the front of the door opening to increase the rigidity of the chassis.  The main hoop is slightly forward to allow access to the emergency manual door latches.  The driver's side bar is mounted above the trunk release system in front of the seat so that still works as well.

When I arrived at RPM Rollbar shop they were in the middle of a flood warning and extreme rains.  Terrible trip travelling I 5 where I suspect all the slow cars got crashed and the traffic was a joke.  Nearly 9 hours to travel 200 miles there was so many accidents.  Bring the car home it was snowing along nearly the entire west coast and my GTS was in the trailer.  I watched 4x4 trucks and Minivans lose control and slide across 3 and 4 lanes of traffic.  One truck fishtailed beside me and drove off the freeway up an embankment.  But I made it home safely and I didn't get too much harrassment from the Customs.  They charge Taxes even on FREE stuff. 

All the bars are made from 0.83" Chrome moly tubing.  Spring Pins and all bolts are Grade 8  3/8".  All attachement plates are bolted to frame structure with backing plates behind the structure.  Rear support bars are approx a 30 degree angle.  I climbed in and out of the window while the car was in the trailer (can't open door).   

I recommend this product for performance and safety.



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« Reply #84 on: January 27, 2016, 06:59:16 PM »

With the Sapphire GTS back inside the garage (after shovelling and lowing the driveway for hours) I jacked the car up and put it on top of my home made Tree (14") blocks for each corner.  I removed the Roe Racing lightweight front 14" brakes from my Twin Turbo GTS after a few drag runs heat scored the thinner rotors.  I repainted the calipers and rotor hats with Duplicolor Blue Caliper paint.  I used a large and a small art brush to smoothly coat the calipers and rotors.  The RR adapter plates are primered and spary paonted black.  New Hawk Gen 3 pads arrived from PartsRack for my car. 

Testing a theory I unbolted the stock rubber brake lines and used the Gen 3 Banjo bolts to bolt the Gen 2 stock rubber brakelines to the Gen 3 style Brembo calipers.  Gen 2 (Car and 3/8" brakelines) are Standard thread whereas Gen 3 cars are Metric (10mm) threads.  Perfect.  Remember to keep the Banjo bolts in their respective calipers and don't mix them up.  Once the lines were bolted to the calipers I had to do some bending and muscle to get the rotor, caliper and the brakeline suppoft brace all lined up with their respective bolts.  One the calipers were bolted on I used a screwdriver and a hammer to push the brakeline brace into position so that I could get the 15mm (socket size) bolt started and then I used the ratchet to tighten the brace to the spindle.  Everything looks great and the front 14" brakes are back on the front of the GTS.

These are Roe Racing manufactured adapter brackets and rotors.  Sean designed these with a quarter inch deeper reset to fit stock Gen 2 wheels.  After market 18" wheels easily fit over the 14" brakes and the RR brake kit also allows use of the stock 18" wheels without requiring a spacer!.

The front calipers and rotors are going to move to the back of the GTS using a set of PartsRack/IPSCO adapter brackets and again, JonB sent me a set of Gen 2 front Hawk pads for this Big Brake upgrade.  Originally moving the front brakes to the rear was a "Big Brakes Dave" idea and patent.  When BB Dave passed away JonB bought the patents from the family and continues to sell the parts. 


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« Reply #85 on: January 30, 2016, 11:24:29 PM »

I cut the caliper mounts from the rear spindles, sanded and painted the cut and installed my IPSCO front Gen 2 brakes to rear ADAPTER kit and Hawk brake pads (from JonB).  Unfortunately, the ABS rubber brakelines won`t work so I used a set of pre ABS rubber brakelines to install the Brembo 4 piston calipers on the rear.  E-brakes to be completed at a later date.

I shot pictures and wrote a How To thread for anyone interested in doing Gen 3 equivalent brakes (same size pistons) on the rear of their Gen 2.  I recommend upgrading the fronts to Gen 3 14`brakes first, then upgrade the rears using the original front brakes.  The adapter kit from PartsRack.com is a quality kit machined out of 6061 T6 aluminium and premium bolts are included. 

There are several kits and options for putting an emergency/parking brake onto the rears, Call JonB at PartsRack.com  I helped Chris Sheib develop some billet stock pre ABS caliper brackets for this use.

http://thevipergarage.com/index.php/topic,1016.0.html

16`wrinkle slicks wouldn`t fit over the ABS calipers is the main reason I upgraded the rear brakes of this car.  The ABS calipers are 43mm pistons and work great with the 13`front brakes but the brakeline of the calipers won`t allow use of the 16`wheels and slicks.  That required I replace the calipers because I NEED the slicks since I added a Nitrous with remote fuel system and street tires won`t hook the Roe engine never mind the extra 150whp I just added.

I`m also upgrading because I plan to install a much stronger engine and 4.2L Mammoth blower on this car.



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« Reply #86 on: February 07, 2016, 10:51:46 AM »

The CCW drag pack wheels and28" slicks still don't fit the car.  The plastic inner tubs have unnecessary bends and the calipers are a little too thick for the preABS wheel center offsets.

I removed the plastic tubs and jacked the wheel up into the wheelwell to check the clearance.  Way too tight to the frame at the front, don't like the way the middle front brace sticks past the rest of the metalwork.  I'll need to cut and weld the frame, bang the firewall from flat to tire curve shape and take some time to heat the inner wheel tubs to remove the interference bumps once the frame has been 'adjusted'. 

A large portion of the lower A arm frame mounting brace is unwelded being engineered to bend and/or break in case of an impact.  With my TT GTS I saw that this structure was deforming because of the high power and wrinkle slicks so I will be welding the gap closed to strengthen and add rigidity to the frame.

I tested another set of CCW road racing wheels and they were wide tires that bolted to the front of a GTS.  They fit the calipers easily but they also have 1/4" spacers screwed to the inner mounting surface.  The CCW drag pak wheels will require the same spacers.


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« Reply #87 on: March 01, 2016, 11:28:59 PM »

I cut a little more than an inch from the frame crossmember and used a hammer to massage the straigh across firewall into a rounded tire shape so that upward movement of the tire wouldn't rub the plastic tub against the firewall and the frame crossmember tand melt holes through the plastic ... not to mention cut the tire on the metal behind the plastic liner and blow the tire causing an accident.  The tires (mainly drag slicks) grow with speed and get larger. 

I used a sawzall to cut the upright brace and cut down the middle of the frame cross member to remove just over an inch for clearance to a depth of 10".  I tapered the last 2" in order to cut down on the stress riser created at the point where the crossmember is full thickness.  At a frame material thickness of 0.077" steel, I replaced the side with 2.75" x 0.120" x 10" steel plate in order to maintain the strength of the cross member. 

I used a propane heater and a heat gun to get the plastic liner hot, then placed it on the flat floor and set a couple of heavy brake rotors on top of the curved areas I needed to straighten out and flatten.

The side gusset, the upright brace and the new cross member side I moved around, trimmed and then welded back together so there was no strength reduction. 

I used Rivnuts to install thread inserts to hole the plastic inner tubs against the frame and make removal easier next time.  I also took the opportunity to weld the main hoop backing plates to the crossmember for extra rigidity and structural support.  The weld is located in an area easy to get at in case I decide to remove the rollbar and wish to also remove the floor plates (bolt in 6 point cage).





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« Reply #88 on: March 01, 2016, 11:53:39 PM »

I trimmed the door latch braces out of the wheel wells and cut then welded together the other wheel well.  I heated and flattened the plastic wheel tub.

I cut welded, reshaped the flat firewall into a curved tire shape, welded the roll cage main hoop backing plate to the bottom of the cross member and then all that was needed was the silicone to reseal the old places over the welds and seams. 

I flattened the back ends of the side sills.  I drilled the top rivets, pushed the rear end plates in about a half inch and re-riveted them top and end plates back together flatter and a half inch shorter.  Now the sills lined up with the narrowed cross member and the recurved firewall.  The finished wheel wells conformed to the shape of the actual wheel well opening (round).

The frame can be seen about 3/4" past the side sill which looks to be longer at the top and rounded inside the wheel well.

I drilled the rivets holding the end plate to the top of the sill, moved the end plate forwards about 1/2" and then re- riveted and massaged the corner and end plate to flat.  The look exactly the same once reinstalled.



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« Reply #89 on: April 26, 2016, 11:43:48 PM »

I took the loose low mile differential and axle stubs as well as the DC Perf diff with Trutrac posi and 272 gears to get the carrier swapped over to the 3.07 geared differential and the DSS axle stubs softened, cut and gun-drilled to fit the Trutrac carrier if that is what's needed to fit.  Coast Equipment said they don't know anything about cutting or modifying the axle stubs to fit the Trutrac.  They also don't know anyone that does that work.

They swapped the carriers between diffs and the shims were nearly perfect with only one change required.  $450 seemed reasonable since the starting guesstimate was $900+

I called DSS/Drive Shaft Shop about the axle stubs.  I needed to know if the stubs required softening, drilling and retempering or just gundrilling.  Only info DSS sales had was that they only sell 2 stubs (Quaife and stockers) and cost would be $700 for JUST the 2 stubs!  Ouch.  Called a bakers dozen differential shops that did custom axles etc.  No one knew anything.  Unitrax said that they normally just send the axle stubs out for drilling although he mentioned that he invented an alternate attaching system for the Quaife and Trutrac (which are slightly different lengths he said).  No luck with that unless I want to pay for shipping two ways, border fees, taxes, exchange etc.  I emailed DSS and asked their Tech how to go about modifying the axle stubs to fit the Trutrac.  The return emai8l said that the axles stubs are hardened completely through.  I took them to BrinksCNC in Chilliwack and he sent them out for "normalzing"  drilled them and chopped off 3/4" from the inside diff end.  Cost is about $700 Canadian.  I also took my Mark Williams axle stubs out of the busted TT Quaife differential and when they bolted into the Trutrac diff I knew that the Quaife and Trutrac used the same stubs!  That means my Quaife and Trutrac differentials are interchangeable! 

I picked up an adjustable proportioning valve for the upgraded brakes so that the rear brake pressure can be cut back about another 50% because of the 4 piston calipers and large friction surface pads and rotors now on the rear of the GTS!  I ordered an adjustable proportioning valve for this ABS Viper.  The ABS braking system uses a larger master cylinder and the brake lines are powder coated.  I installed the proportioning valve right beside the master cylinder (under the hood side vent) for a lower temperature hoping the prop valve will last the life of the car. 

http://thevipergarage.com/index.php/topic,6086.0.html


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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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