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The VIPER Garage  |  Generation-specific Viper Forums  |  RT/10 & GTS Viper Discussions  |  Project: Bullet-proof V-10
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Author Topic: Project: Bullet-proof V-10  (Read 6988 times)
BOTTLEFED
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« on: October 23, 2010, 11:23:37 PM »

This thread was started over on the VCA to document my engine build. 

A quick history for those that don't know...
I installed the Roe s/c (supercharger) and ignorantly went straight to the 10# pulley on it.  I have a 97 GTS that came with a forged piston motor.  Well, after the engine failed dramatically, I discovered through some investigation, that my original 97 engine had been rebuilt by Arrow on a warranty issue with cast pistons.  10# and inexperienced tuning on cast pistons is very short-lived.

I found another used forged engine to replace it.  I bought it from a junk yard back east.  It lasted 200mi and fell apart inside.  I pulled it apart to find that it was rusted inside from sitting outside in the weather.  I got a full refund.

I then bought another used engine out of 98 car that should have had forged pistons.  I say SHOULD have because upon inspection, it had cast pistons.  It was another brilliant rebuild by Arrow.  I decided to just drop it in the car and just run a safe boost on it. 
I started with 5# and learned the tuning of the VEC.  Then I went to a 6.5# pulley and water/meth injection to push it a little more.  The motor held up great and made some really good power.  I got really comfortable with the tuning and kept pushing it to the edge of what I felt was safe.

So, this is where this thread comes in. 
I decided I still wanted more, and my original plan when I decided to drop in this cast piston engine, was to rebuild it with forged pistons.  The next part of this will be postings from my original thread.
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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
BOTTLEFED
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« Reply #1 on: October 23, 2010, 11:25:25 PM »

Here is my current engine setup:
stock 8.0L (488cid) V-10
Roe supercharger @ 6.5psi
water-meth injection
JM stage3 CNC ported heads with upgraded valves and springs
Arrow (H&S) 1.7 roller rockers
stock cam
stock bottom end
Fidanza flywheel and stock clutch
Borla headers and exhaust
stock intake with K&N filters
stock fuel system with upgraded fuel injectors (green tops - 550cc) and a BAP
tuning done with VEC3
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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
BOTTLEFED
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« Reply #2 on: October 23, 2010, 11:32:43 PM »

Now for the plan.
I want to up the boost on the Roe to 10psi and finish installing my nitrous system.
I would like to do it as safely and reliably as I can afford. I would say the max I will be running is 700rwhp and 700rwtq, and 850-900rwhp and 900+rwtq on the bottle.

First, of course, I will need to build up the bottom end.
A set of Diamond forged was a no-brainer. No rebalancing needed and easy drop-in replacement. But then I came across a great deal on a set of slightly used forged pistons and rods. The seller thought the pistons were Diamonds since they were in a Diamond box, but they said CP on them. He didn't know what brand the rods were. So I bought them anyway.



I did some searching and it turns out the pistons are CP pistons and the rods are Manley steel rods.

As far as I know they are stock replacements (bore & stroke), but I'm sure they are not the same weight, so I will have to have the assembly balanced.


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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
BOTTLEFED
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« Reply #3 on: October 23, 2010, 11:39:08 PM »

Just got back from the machine shop. The pistons measured .004" under 4.000" so I should be fine for coating the skirts.
The machinist also told me the pistons are slightly dished and should lower the compression a little.

I'm also getting the piston tops ceramicoated for heat dissipation and the skirts coated for anti-friction as well.
I talked to my coater and he says their skirt coating is only .0008" at max.
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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
BOTTLEFED
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« Reply #4 on: October 24, 2010, 12:07:51 AM »

I got my pistons back from getting the tops ceramicoated for heat reduction and the skirts coated for less friction



I'm guessing these pistons will lower my CR a little with the dish over the flat stock pistons. I'm not sure how much the JM heads lower CR, but I've read its about .2-.3. I may have the heads cc'd by a machine shop while its all apart.
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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
BOTTLEFED
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« Reply #5 on: October 24, 2010, 12:12:34 AM »

Next will be the detailed, step-by-step write-up of the engine removal from my 97 GTS.  The Gen1 will be similar, but there are some differences.  Most Gen2 will be the same with only a few updated parts.  My car is not stock so there may be some pieces missing on my car that an untouched, low-mile Viper will still have.

1. First disconnect the battery and remove the airbox or whatever intake system you are using.

2. Next you will remove the windshield wipers and cowling. 15mm nuts hold the wiper arms on. 4 phillips screws hold the cowling on.



3. Also remove the little brackets that screwed to the cowling. These are sharp and tend to get in the way often. A 10mm nut holds them on. Many times other items are zip tied to them as well.

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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
BOTTLEFED
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« Reply #6 on: October 24, 2010, 12:15:43 AM »

4. Now the focus is on the intake manifold.



5. Start by removing the brake booster line and A/C vac. Line.





6. Disconnect the TPS sensor on the left throttle body.



7. On the other side, disconnect the IAC behind the right throttle body.

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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #7 on: October 24, 2010, 12:17:51 AM »

8. The fuel injector/ignition harness is located on the left side behind the intake manifold. I have a VEC connected in there, so your connectors may look a little different, but the principle is the same. There are 2 big connectors. Pull them up so you can see them. You will push the red slider over (see first 2 pics). Then pinch the tab and pull them apart. They are stiff and tight, so you need to get your hands in there and pull hard. But make sure you push that slider over or you’ll never get them apart. And here they are disconnected.



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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #8 on: October 24, 2010, 12:20:30 AM »

9. Remove the heater air box. There are a few 10mm screws holding in down and then just pull it up and off.



10. This part is very tricky and takes small, dexterous hands. The coil connectors are exactly like the fuel injector/ignition harness connectors. They have the red slider and you will need to reach in and feel for them. You may have to unplug all the spark plug wires off the coils to get to the connectors this time. Both sliders push to the right. It is easiest to get to the right one on the right side of the car, and the left connector from the left side. Here they are disconnected from the coils and pulled out so you can see them. You will want pull them out to clear them from snagging on things as you pull the manifold later.



11. Disconnect the purge hose and PCV hoses from the manifold.



12. Pinch the clip on the throttle cable and unhook it from the linkage.

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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #9 on: October 24, 2010, 12:30:19 AM »

13. These are the bolts that hold on the intake manifold. There are 2 for each intake runner. They are 7/16” bolts. Remember, the head is aluminum, so be careful not to cross-thread them as you remove them or snap off the head of the bolt.



14. I use a long 10” extension on the 3/8” ratchet to get the bolts out. I tape the 7/16” socket to the extension with masking tape to hold it on and to keep it from marring the manifold paint. Don’t wrap it too much though as space is very tight.



15. Use the factory service manual (FSM) for the correct loosening/tightening sequence to remove the bolts in. The socket just barely fits in there and is a tight squeeze on most of the bolts, but it does fit, just keep wiggling it around. You may also try disconnecting the injector clips to give you some extra room in between.

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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #10 on: October 24, 2010, 12:31:23 AM »

16. Once all those bolts are loose and the manifold is just sitting on the heads, you will need to depressurize the fuel system. The easiest way is to take a rag and a small ballpoint pen. The brass cap on top of the manifold is covering a schrader valve. Hold the rag over the hole as you push the schrader with the pen. You will probably get a little fuel leak out, but there is usually not much pressure left after the car has not been run for a couple hours. After that, reach back behind the manifold on the left side and follow the fuel line to its connection. It is difficult to describe, but the fitting is two pieces. You have to push the inside clip back, while pulling on the hose to get it come loose. It will take some time to figure it out if you’ve never seen this style hose connection before. You can get under the car to see it better, however, I don’t recommend trying to disconnect it from down there or you’ll end up with a face full of fuel. Sorry, no pics of this part since it is almost completely hidden from view.

17. Double check to make sure you got everything disconnected from the manifold. Then slowly pull off the intake manifold. If it feels stuck, make sure you got all the bolts, and use a pry bar or long, flat screwdriver to lift it in a couple spots to get it unsealed from the heads.

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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #11 on: October 24, 2010, 12:33:29 AM »

18. A couple old hand towels cover the heads and valve covers nicely and block debris from getting in the intake inlets. You can stuff some rags in the inlets as well.

19. Disconnect all the spark plug wires and undo the separators from the valve covers so you can move all of the wires up on top of the block.



20. The coil bracket is held to the block with three 14mm bolts. One is centered on top of the block and the other two are on the back. Remove these bolts and pull out the coils and plug wires all together.



21. Next, remove the drive belt. Use a 15mm socket with a 3” extension. I use this long ½” ratchet for leverage. You will want it set to tighten so that when you turn it, the tensioner will twist up and loosen the belt. Take the belt off the pulleys. You can also wait until after you remove the cross brace, but I like to get it out of the way now.



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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #12 on: October 24, 2010, 12:36:02 AM »

22. If you haven’t done so already, drain the coolant and oil now. I put a big, flat Rubbermaid bin under the lower radiator hose and disconnect it and let it drain there instead of messing with the radiator drain plug. A little more messy, but gets it done real quick. You can also drain the block by removing the plugs in the sides of the block under the headers. The plugs are square head and take a special square tool. I only drain the block when I’m flushing the system (which I just did last year and don’t need to in this rebuild). If you haven’t flushed the system, now is a good time to do it. Drain all the oil and remove the filter as well. Then put the filter back on to protect the pedestal.



23. Remove the starter. From the top, disconnect the small wire first. It is held on with an 8mm nut. The larger wires are held on with a 12mm nut. If you didn’t disconnect the battery, you will know it when these wires touch the frame Move these wires out of the way. The wires are sitting on their respective studs in this pic.



24. Now get under the car and remove the 14mm bolts attaching the starter motor. Use a 8” extension to get to them from the bottom. Here is the starter removed.

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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #13 on: October 24, 2010, 12:38:45 AM »

25. This next one is very tricky and you’ll have to decide how you want to do it. You could have the A/C system evacuated of Freon and just leave the compressor on the motor. Or you can do it this way. Remove the four 12mm bolts holding the compressor to the block. They are very difficult to get to and you will need a couple different ratchets and wrenches to get them loose. Leave the top rear one for last because with the A/C lines in the way, you cannot pull it out completely. This is as good a pic as I could get of the bolts.



26. Once the compressor is detached, it will be hanging by the A/C lines. It doesn’t move far, so just push it forward onto the steering rack. You can tie it up out of the way a little if you like.



27. Move to the other side of the engine and find the 3 connectors under the right header. These are the O2 sensor harness, crank angle sensor connector, and coolant temp sensor connector. Disconnect them and make sure they are free of the block.



28. From the top, undo the 10mm nut connecting the engine ground wire to the frame.

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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #14 on: October 24, 2010, 12:44:00 AM »

29. Disconnect alternator wire by removing the ½” nut. Then disconnect the harness on top of the alternator. (sorry for the blurry pics)





30. The cam position sensor sits right above the crank pulley/damper. It is a simple push-to-release clip, but usually it is very tight so make sure you are pinching the tab and only pull on the connector, not the wires. Notice in the pic that there is also a tab on the bolt next to it that holds the harness. You will need to pull it out or remove the bolt to get the tab off.



31. On the top front of the driver-side head is the coolant temp sensor. Disconnect it.

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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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