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The VIPER Garage  |  Generation-specific Viper Forums  |  RT/10 & GTS Viper Discussions  |  Project: Bullet-proof V-10
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Author Topic: Project: Bullet-proof V-10  (Read 6986 times)
BOTTLEFED
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« Reply #15 on: October 24, 2010, 12:46:08 AM »

32. You will notice the harness is held by a tab on the front corner of the valve cover by one of the bolts. Loosen it and pull off the tab. Now the engine harness should be free from the motor and can be pulled out of the way.





33. Remove the radiator hoses from the engine inlet and outlet. You can take them off the radiator and take them out, or just leave them on the radiator and tie them out of the way. I use a 1” and 1¼” pvc caps to plug the hoses from leaking.

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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #16 on: October 24, 2010, 12:57:02 AM »

34. Removing the cross brace is next. Unbolt the power steering pump cooler from the front of the brace and lay it to the side. Then unbolt the two 9/16” bolts from the frame on each side. The forward-most bolt on my car has a nut on the inside of the fender so I have to reach in and hold it with a wrench while loosening the bolt. I’m not sure if that is stock, but I am mentioning it anyway.





35. From under the car you will need to unbolt the brace from the frame as well.



36. Pulling the cross brace out can be very difficult. I always have the car up on jackstands supporting the lower lateral frame rails so as to relax the upper lateral rails. This loosens the tension against the brace and allows it to pull out. You will work it up and out one side at a time. There is a rivet that sticks out that can catch on the brace on the left side of the frame. I use a pry bar to help it over this and to leverage the frame to pop the brace out. It takes some effort, but it will come out. It’s like one of those chinese puzzles; once you get it, it will just slip right out.

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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #17 on: October 24, 2010, 12:59:31 AM »

37. With the cross brace out of the way, it makes pulling out the power steering pump a cinch. I have a billet pulley and bracket, but the stock will be the same (wait, you don’t have an upgraded pulley and bracket? Get it… NOW). There are three ½” bolts holding the pump to the bracket. You can see two from the top and one is directly below. Use the openings in the pulley to get to them (as seen in the pic).



38. The PS pump will still be connected by the lines. You can disconnect them and drain the fluid, or just tie the pump forward, out of the way like this.



39. Move to the right rear of the engine bay. On the ’97 GTS, this is how the coolant hoses look coming from the heater core. Other models and years look different. Disconnect these hoses from the cylinder head and move them out of the way. I put a 1” plastic elbow in them to keep them together and from leaking. [note: I have my hoses covered with a heat resistant shielding to protect them from the header heat since I don’t use the manifold shields. You can see this on other hoses and lines throughout my engine bay. These are not stock, so don’t think you are missing something on your car when they don’t look exactly like mine.]



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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #18 on: October 24, 2010, 01:01:45 AM »

40. The alternator is attached with two 9/16” bolts. Remove the bolts and wriggle the alternator up and out.



41. Remove the coolant hose that runs up to the coolant tank. Mine has a hose clamp; yours might be a spring clamp.



42. Next remove the coolant hose from the line running along the valve cover. Also remove this line/pipe from the valve cover. It is attached with two bolts to the cover itself. This piece is removed to make the next step easier. BTW, you will see in later pics that I use another plastic elbow to connect the two coolant hose that were just taken off to keep them from leaking and tied together and out of the way.



43. There are no pics of this step because every case will be unique. This is the time to remove the exhaust manifold/headers. I have Borla and they attach at a collector before the turnout. They are pretty simple as far as headers go, but you may have a more difficult setup. I’ve never had the stock manifold so I can’t give any tips there either.
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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #19 on: October 24, 2010, 01:03:48 AM »

44. The oil cooler lines should be visible now that everything is out of the way. The larger fitting is on the line and takes a 1” wrench. You can hold the fitting on the oil filter pedestal with a 7/8” wrench while you loosen the line.



45. Unbolt the thermostat housing and remove it and the thermostat. Stuff a rag in the opening so nothing falls in. The bolts are the standard 7/16” that hold everything else on the motor.



46. By now, you should have the hood off. The hood springs and bracket get in the way when removing the engine. Unbolt the bracket from the spring. There are two ½” bolts on each spring holding it to the bracket. Fold the spring down and out of the way. Lay the bracket carefully down. It will still be in the way, somewhat, but you will be able to move it up out of the way as you lift the engine out.

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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #20 on: October 24, 2010, 01:06:22 AM »

47. You will want to start getting things ready to pull the engine out now. Under the car, you will now need to find the motor mount nuts. The frame has a cradle that the engine sits in. There is a large nut and a tab that align the engine in the cradle on each frame rail. The nut is ¾” and very tight. Get a ½” drive socket and breaker bar to loosen these nuts. Remove the nuts and the motor will just sit there until you are ready to lift it out.



48. The last steps before lifting the engine. Get a jack under the transmission to hold the front half up as you unbolt the bellhousing from the engine block. From underneath, remove the flywheel cover. There are four 3/8” bolts attaching it.



49. Still under the car, there are two larger bolts from the bellhousing into the block. These are 5/8” bolts, one on each side of the bellhousing. First pic is the left side and the second pic is the right side looking up from the bottom (the bolts with washers that are in focus).



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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #21 on: October 24, 2010, 01:08:31 AM »

50. From the top, there are four 9/16” bolts attaching the bellhousing to the block. These are tight like the larger ones on the bottom. They are not easy to get to, even with everything out of the way. The first pic is looking down from the driver-side, and the second from the passenger-side (sorry for blurry pics). I use a long, adjustable 3/8” ratchet with a short socket to get to the bolts. You can see how well it works.






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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #22 on: October 24, 2010, 01:10:10 AM »

51. Here is the engine all ready to be lifted out. Once the engine is free and loose, recheck all around it to make sure, again, that you didn’t forget to disconnect any wires or remove any bolts or loosen any hoses that could break or keep you from lifting the engine out. Attach your engine hoist securely at 3 or 4 points on the block, front and back equally. You will first lift a little to get the engine up out of the motor mounts. Then the engine will need to come forward to pull out of the transmission. I use a pry bar between the block and bellhousing to help them separate. Make sure the jack is still supporting the transmission as you do this. They will usually pop as they release and the engine will be free to lift out slowly. Remember the hood bracket and move it as needed. Have someone guide you out to make sure you are not snagged on things such as the A/C compressor, coolant hoses, or frame rails. Cover the engine bay and front fascia as leftover fluid will most likely be dripping out as the engine is lifted and moved.





52. With the engine out and away from the car, you can temporarily set it on a block of wood until you can get it up on an engine stand for teardown. This will not harm the engine or oil pan. The teardown is next.

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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #23 on: October 24, 2010, 10:51:16 AM »

Glad to see this thread again, because it's not finished yet.

Ted
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #24 on: October 24, 2010, 04:18:39 PM »


  Again, very cool thread Tim, I will probably have to venture down this road someday as well.
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Andrew MacPherson
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« Reply #25 on: October 25, 2010, 05:23:01 PM »

53. Before you put the engine on a stand, you will want to remove a few parts. First, remove the clutch. There are eight small flanged bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel. Loosen them in a star pattern to release it evenly. The assembly is sitting on some alignment pins and the plate will slide off once all the bolts are out. The disc will be loose behind the plate, so don’t drop it when pulling off the pressure plate.



54. The best way to remove the large ¾” flywheel bolts is with an impact gun. If you don’t have an impact gun then you will want to move to the next step and make the flywheel holding tool. I loosen all the bolts in a star pattern to reduce the chance of warping the flywheel. I leave 2 bolts in and then tighten them back on just enough to hold the flywheel steady.



55. I have made this tool for other motors in the past to remove front hub bolts and it has worked beautifully. It is a simple 3’ piece of angle iron (available at Home Depot/Lowes/most hardware stores). Lay the pressure plate on the angle iron and mark two of the close bolt holes. Drill those holes in the angle iron to the size of the clutch bolts so that you can attach the piece to the flywheel like in the pic. Make you attach it on the left side of the motor so that is pushes down on the ground as you loosen the hub bolt. You will need to turn it around if you using it to loosen the flywheel bolts or tighten the hub bolt.

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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #26 on: October 25, 2010, 05:24:57 PM »

56. The front hub bolt is notoriously difficult to loosen. It was tightened to 150ft/lbs and doused in loctite. I’ve noticed that a 1-1/4” socket fits on the bolt, but have been told 31mm (1.22”) is the correct size. Get a large ½” or even ¾” drive breaker bar and maybe a 3’ cheater bar on top of that. Use one foot to stabilize the engine and loosen the bolt. The flywheel holding tool will push against the ground to keep the motor from turning as you twist the bolt loose.



57. Once the hub bolt is loose, remove the flywheel tool and the bolts holding the flywheel. The flywheel is kind of pressed on the crank shaft so you may need to tap on it slightly to break it loose. With the flywheel off, get your stand attachment ready and bolt it up to the rear on the engine block. Then lift the engine up to the stand and you are ready to start tearing it down.



58. The rest of this will not be quite as detailed at the first part since I feel that if you are going this far, you are probably comfortable with your understanding of engine internals and should have a factory service manual (FSM) to reference.

59. Remove the valve covers. There is a sequence to loosen the bolts in the FSM. The bolts are the typical 7/16” bolts used on much of this motor. It is easier to use a torx (star) bit to get these since they are sometimes too close to the cover and you risk scuffing the coating on the cover if you use a socket.

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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #27 on: October 25, 2010, 05:28:05 PM »

60. Now to remove the cylinder heads. Again, follow the FSM for the sequence of loosening the bolts. I remove the small 7/16” bolts at the top first, then loosen the large ¾” bolts in the proper sequence. Put something down to catch all the residual coolant and oil in the heads, because once the head is loose, it will leak. Remove all the bolts and keep them safe for reuse later. Get a place that is close and clean, ready to put the head before you lift it off, trust me. There are alignment pins, so just lift the head straight up and off the block. The gasket will most likely not be reusable.



61. Now turn the engine over on the stand. Remove the oil pan bolts. Again, these are the same 7/16” bolts from the rest of the motor. There is no pick up tube in the pan like most engines, so just pull the pan off. Here you can see the reusable oil pan gasket. Remove the windage tray as well.



62. This is with the windage tray and gasket removed.

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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #28 on: October 25, 2010, 05:29:39 PM »

63. Move to the front of the motor. Back the hub bolt out a bit and attach a puller to the crankshaft balancer/damper. Remove the hub bolt, pulley, and balancer/damper.



64. Remove the front timing cover. From the pic you can see most of the nine bolts holding it on. Once you have them all out, you may need to pry/tap the cover a little to get it unsealed. With the cover off, you can remove the cam bolt and slip off the timing chain and sprocket. Here is all of those removed.



65. Now for some internal disassembly. This is how I do it. Others have different ways. Mine my not be the best, but it works.
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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #29 on: October 25, 2010, 05:31:54 PM »

66. Put the hub bolt back in the crank with a few thick washers under it to keep it from bottoming out the threads. You will use it to turn the crankshaft so you can get all the connecting rod nuts. Turn it so that rod nuts you are removing are top and centered like pictured.



67. Loosen the nuts on the connecting rod caps. Do this one at a time for each rod. Use a very soft hammer to tap the stud and loosen the cap.



68. I use this brass drift wrapped in masking tape to tap the piston/rod assembly out the top of the block (the bottom with the motor in this position). Be very careful not to gouge/damage the block as you are doing this. Allow the connecting rod and stud to touch the cylinder wall as little as possible, especially if you are not boring the block. There are special caps to go on the studs if you are really particular.

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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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