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The VIPER Garage  |  General Viper Discussions  |  Viper Pit  |  Big Brakes for your Gen 1 or Gen 2
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Author Topic: Big Brakes for your Gen 1 or Gen 2  (Read 2494 times)
RTTTTed
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Viper Nation - ezine
« on: October 22, 2010, 10:02:33 PM »

After reading up on braking systems on the Vipers I found that the Gen 1 and 2 Vipers were considered "lacking" compared to most of the current supercars at that time.  The articles I read seemed to average about .8Gs for the Vipers and .9 for the Prosches, Ferraris etc.  I was lucky enough when I bought my Roe supercharged 98 GTS that it came with lightweight drilled/slotted rotors all around.  It also had Tom's 40mm rear caliper upgrade kit and the brakes in that car were great.  When I bought my 2001 Roe supercharged GTS it had lightweight rotors and the 43mm factory ABS rear calipers.  After more reading I decided that my "Ultimate Viper" needed to stop with the best and since the Gen 3 & 4 Vipers did stop as well or better than my upgraded GTS, I called and ordered a set of Roe Racing 14" front brakes with lightweight rotors.  Not planning on tracking the car a lot I felt that the stock rear 43mm calipers would stop as well as the newer cars since the rears only do 20% of the stopping.  If I used the car for tracking much then the rears would need heavier and thicker rotors as well as larger calipers and brake pads to handle the heat.

Because this is a general advisory on brakes, I accept no responsibility for what you use this information for.  If doing your brakes is not something you are comfortable working on (since your life depends on them) then get the work done by a Pro.  The front brakes are quite easy to do, but the rear brakes are more detailed.

When thinking about upgrading to the Bigger Brakes, keep in mind that 18" wheels are minimium size.  17" won't fit, and you're Gen 1-2 spare tire will also no longer fit the front.  I installed a Hella Tire Pressure Monitor System and carry a car of "tire repair" as well as a 12v air compressor.

Stock 14" Gen3 (and 4) use Brembo 4 piston calipers and they are much larger than the Brembo 13" set ups on the Gen 1 & 2 cars.  Here is a pic of the differences between stock 13", slotted drilled lightweight 13", stock 13" Brembo calipers compared to 14" slotted lightweight rotors and Brembo 14" calipers.
  


The changeover from the 13" to 14" was simple.  It took about an hour to removed the old brake calipers and rotors. About another hour to removed the brakelines and clean the spindles and hubs.  The adapter was a simple bolt on to the old caliper attachment points with the new calipers bolting to the adapters.  This cahngeover was as simple as changing the  rotors, pads and brake line.  Simple and easy within a couple hours.  Check that you have the size tools for the kit as my Roe kit came with large allen head bolts.  Not sure which bolts are used for the BBKits of Stoptech, BB Dave, etc. but make certain that you have all tools needed before starting the job.



I recommend this upgrade for all Gen 1 and gen 2 cars.  Ther is a significantimcreease in stopping force with the front brake upgrade.  Cars non-ABS are to loose the rear brake proportioning valve spring to increase the brake pressure to the rear so that the car's braking system can maintain it's balance.  I also recommend that year 2000 and earlier Vipers add Tom's rear caliper upgrade in all cases.



Different cars react differently to different kits and the braek balance needs to be maintained after upgrading any and all brake changes.  ABS cars self adjust while the manual controlled braking systems need too be adjusted with manual adjustable proportioning valves.  Some kits come with complete instructions and those instructions should always be followed.  

My Viper GTS is Sapphire so the natural color didn't work for my "look" at car shows.  For about $25 I bought a Duplicolor caliper paint kit.  I painted the calipers a medium Blue and they looked great.  At 30,000 miles of useage I did repaint the rear calipers, however the front calipers are still perfect.



I bled my brakes and drained the old fluid because this was a perfect time to change the fluid in my brake system (suggest you change your fluid as well).  I have a Johnson Bar that I use socket extentions to adjust until the bar fits between the lower steering wheel ring and the brake pedal.  This way I can pump up the brakes, set the Johnson Bar to hold the brake pedal down while I loosen and then tighten the bleeder valves on the calipers until the brakes are fully bled.  

First pump the brake pedal and make certain that there is pedal pressure at the brakes.  Then got onto the road and hit the brakes hard to check brake balance of the car.  You do not want the rear brakes to lock up before the front brakes as that would cause control problems and is considered unsafe.  If your car has this situation  fix it immediately.  Complete brake kits are always the best choice as they should come with everything that you need and if it is needed the kit will come with an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear.

Most, if not all Vendors will happily sell you a complete Big Brake Kit.

Ted


« Last Edit: October 23, 2010, 12:18:58 AM by RTTTTed » Logged
1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
RTTTTed
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #1 on: October 22, 2010, 10:30:55 PM »

I started with EBC Green pads, but they dusted up my clear coated VR1 polished wheels every time I touched the brakes.  Wiping the dust scratched the clear coat and the black dust looked really ugly.  I phoned and ordered EBC Red/Ceramic pads as soon as I got home from my HPDE at PIR with JonB as my driving instructor.  Lol, I actually phoned JonB on Monday and ordered the Red Pads.  The decal that comes in the EBC box says, "When you're as quick as you think you are"     

Ted
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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