The VIPER Garage
User Info
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
January 18, 2018, 07:01:00 AM

Login with username, password and session length
Search:     Advanced search
News
Welcome to the updated Viper Garage.  We look forward to exchanging stories, events, tech info, pictures and fun.  Welcome to our humble Viper Home
Pick Your ViperGarage Theme
Forum Stats
24598 Posts in 1931 Topics by 788 Members
Latest Member: Blitz8282
Home Help Search Calendar Login Register
The VIPER Garage  |  How To Instructions  |  How-to section  |  Better seatbelt harnesses shoulder mounts!
« previous next »
Pages: [1] Go Down Print
Author Topic: Better seatbelt harnesses shoulder mounts!  (Read 1902 times)
RTTTTed
Owner
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 7716


Viper Nation - ezine
« on: April 27, 2013, 04:52:33 PM »

One of my Pet Peeves is the 2 year time limit on safety harnesses.  Another is that the shoulder harness bolts are so difficult to instal and remove (every 2 years replacement).  I like the eyebolt/clip style of seatbelt harness attachments.  Instead of just using bolt through belts and standard shoulder seat belt bolts, expensive harnesses come with eyebolts and clips.  Should be only a few minutes to switch them out, at least the ends that you can reach.

The lap belts are bolted beside the seat and I had to remove the seats to get at the attachments to change the harnesses.  The shoulder harness straps were clipped to eyebolts under the trim panel behind the seats near the shoulders on my TTGTS.  The crotch straps (2 harnesses) were clipped to eyebolts I'd installed in the floor (5 point).  All the rules require that if you use the premium quality clip ends, they need to be 'safety wired'.  When I installed the harnesses for the SSCC.us last year I used clips on the ends of the new harnesses (1 year old and 1 set was new, but 2 years old).  I used the eyebolts from the driver's side lap belts to attach the passenger side shoulder harness belts.  Last year I was building/installing a complete bolt-in rollcage which meant that I had the trim panels off the car so installing the hidden eyebolts was easy.  The Viper frame comes with pre-installed shoulder harness attachment points on even the simple GTS models.  This year when I decided to take the Sapphire GTS to the SSCC.us the rules required that we use 5 or 6 point harnesses and arm restraints or window nets.  Not wanting to waste my money ($140 cheapest harnesses avail. in the US, $$50 shipping and border tax) I took the seats out of my TT GTS and removed the seatblelts.  The shoulder harnesses were clipped and I'd installed safety wires that were very long so that I could grip them with pliers and yank the safety wires out of the clips.  Then I used a screwdriver to hold the spring clips and removed the shoulder belts (1 hr).  Not as easy as I'd expected because the eyebolt was 2" inside the trim panel and almost impossible to see, but I did get them out of the car.

« Last Edit: February 24, 2017, 10:19:22 PM by RTTTTed » Logged
1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
RTTTTed
Owner
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 7716


Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #1 on: April 28, 2013, 10:28:20 AM »

Deciding that the eyebolt system could use some serious improvement, I thought for a few days and decided that I didn't have time to order and purchase new eyebolts ($4 each, shipping and taxes $40).  The eyebolts inside the trim panel were going to require trim panel removal and if I had to re-instal them later the trim panel was going to be removed and replaced (re and re'd) again later, which was an inordinate amount of wasted work that was required a minimum of every 2 years for the faster classes that my 1500hp Viper raced in.  I decided to use some 1/8" x 1 3/8" x 1 3/8" angle iron cut to 1 1/4" length.  I used some 5/16" chain links cut in half and welded them to the angle iron outside, then drilled 1/2" holes on the inside. 

When finished the chain links (loops) would be tight against the should trim panel behind the seats and the harnesses could be clipped into the mounts without removing the seats and trim panels!

I spent an entire day removing seats and trim panels from my GTS and the seats from my TT GTS.    The new iron/chain link mounts worked like a charm and cutting the trim panels required smaller holes than the ones that came with the ACR Vipers.  Another advantage of my harness mounts was that the belts were removed from inside the trim where they could rub against the fiberglass and chassis works of the Viper to the outside.  With the entire harness belts exposed any fraying/wear would be prevented and easily seen if such happened.  I welded full chain links to the head of 1/2" (3/4" head) bolts to make new strong mount/anchors for the crotch belts under the seats.  The original $550 - 6 point Team Tech harness I'd given away from my TT had donated the clips for shoulder and crotch straps for the dual race harnesses I was installing into my Roe GTS.  Building the eyebolts and mounts should make the seatbelt instal next year much easier.  Especially once I make eyebolts for the lap belts and buy the 4 clip ends required for both harnesses to make changeovers a simple easy process taking less than an hour instead of days.  While I own both Vipers and compete this modification will allow me to campaign the same 2 harnesses for both cars.  Being mounted outside of the trim panels allows acess to put safety wires through the pin holes of the clips (required by rules).  I used haywire for 'locking' the clips. 

When buying a seat belt harness check the date you are buying.  Usually the cheapest ones are the ones that only have a year left before being "worn out" (outdated).
« Last Edit: February 24, 2017, 10:21:05 PM by RTTTTed » Logged
1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
RTTTTed
Owner
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 7716


Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #2 on: April 29, 2013, 05:18:34 PM »

When drilling a hole through the floor for the crotch strap drill it through the seat bracing/support in the area where it is spot welded to the floor behind the brace for strength (spot welds can be seen in the attached pic).

I welded some eye bolts using the 3/8" chain and 1/2" NF bolts and washers to secure the single lap belt of a 5 point harness.  This allows installing and removing the lap belt without the need to remove the seat from car.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2017, 10:28:22 PM by RTTTTed » Logged
1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
shooter_t1
Guest
« Reply #3 on: April 29, 2013, 07:43:13 PM »

Yah, as soon as someone sponsors me ...  In the meantime, I'll run these two sets until I need new ones then I'll keep buying the cheapos until someone makes smart rules.  For a coupe runs a year there is no possible way I can justify spending over $600 each year.  Yes, I go 175mph in the Roe car and 215 + in the TT car.

Ask Jon to be sure, but I thought the 6 point TeamTechs come with a certificate and are good for 2 years before needing re certification. Plus, you don't have to drill holes in your floor for the anti-submarine belts (bottom fronts).
Logged
RTTTTed
Owner
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 7716


Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #4 on: April 29, 2013, 08:45:02 PM »

Yep good for only 2 years.  They are a premium belt (that's where all my clips came from).  Recertification was $230+ and shipping 2 ways ($70) plus border fees ($35). 

I have 2 Vipers and navigators also require safety harnesses.  That's $550 (plus shipping and tax and border fees) for EACH seat.  ... And double the cost if you want to instal a harness for each seat for each car.  Don't forget that they only last 2 years.  So cost (done properly) would be a thousand and a couple hundred dollars per year.   

I opted for cheaper, but good quality belting.  Too bad that the fittings and ends are so expensive.  I loved that set that came in my car.  After the car sat in the shop for 3 years the seat belts were way past due date.  I gave it away and bought the Gforce and Crow belts that are now expiring ... 

Yes the 6 points are allowed to be bolted to the seat mounts (for most sanctioning bodies at least).  I think I prefer the single crotch strap because there is already too much webbing to be stuffed and hidden out of sight when you're just driving the car at extreme slow speeds (uder 90mph).
Logged
1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
RTTTTed
Owner
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 7716


Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #5 on: February 24, 2017, 09:22:44 PM »

My NEW belts purchased after the above mentioned belts are dated 2 years ago now, still in the sealed plastic pouches, need to be recertified and/or replaced even though they have been inside a closed shop inside a box and not exposed to sunlight or in a car.  Stupid, stupid rules and way to put YOUR money in SFI and manufacturers wallets! 

What a waste of MY money.  There's the recert fee, shipping charges, Gov will want sales taxes AGAIN (12%) as well as shipping fees, fuel surcharge on shipping and 50% border fees unless sent by USPS. 
Logged
1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
Pages: [1] Go Up Print 
« previous next »
 

SMF 2.0.2 | SMF © 2011, Simple Machines | Theme by nesianstyles | Buttons by Andrea