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The VIPER Garage  |  Generation-specific Viper Forums  |  RT/10 & GTS Viper Discussions  |  Front mount twin turbo all out build
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Author Topic: Front mount twin turbo all out build  (Read 8108 times)
jtin
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« on: July 08, 2015, 07:31:49 PM »

Hello all. I'm starting a new build thread as this new build is pretty much 100% irrelevant to my last build. Gonna be posting as many pics as I can, car is currently just about ready to pull out of garage.
I spent 9 months completely redoing the car. Working countless hrs welding , thinking , prototyping ,ect ect.
I must give major props to Paolo as he supplied me with the manifolds and weekly phone calls with ideas ect. I was just planning to redo what I didn't like about the old set up. (spool, overheating, lack of good air filter options, oil feed and drain at the turbo, stupid long charge piping and bends) to name a few.

Im limited on spare time so updates may be on the slow side. Ill let mostly the pictures do the talking. I cant stress enough how much labour was involved. Very proud of the final results, but in the same breath id have to really think twice to take this on again lol.

Here was the original vision I had. This was Paolo's first street front mount build. At this point all I knew is I wanted to avoid air to air and was trying my best to figure a way to retain A/C

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jtin
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« Reply #1 on: July 08, 2015, 07:36:02 PM »

Here is were it all started. First and formost the most important part allowing me to mount turbos where I believe they belong.
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jtin
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« Reply #2 on: July 08, 2015, 07:39:42 PM »

Ended up port matching to the striker R heads. The cast manifolds had plenty of meat for me to do whatever.

Upgraded the wastegates from a 44mm to a 50mm
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jtin
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« Reply #3 on: July 08, 2015, 07:53:22 PM »

Pictured here is the motor plate. Again props to Paolo on this one. It has made the project way harder yet so worth it in the end. I'm still running the stock mounts but technically they are not being used.










« Last Edit: February 11, 2017, 09:05:02 PM by jtin » Logged
jtin
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« Reply #4 on: July 08, 2015, 08:01:13 PM »

Ended up buying a new set of twin 71mm divided housing ball bearing turbos. Wanted the divided housing as I wanted to test out Paolo's quick spool design using a second set of wastegates. This is all untested ,but im willing to see what the results will be.






Laser installation for perfectly level.

« Last Edit: February 06, 2017, 02:26:25 PM by jtin » Logged
jtin
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« Reply #5 on: July 08, 2015, 08:09:50 PM »

The rat ness cold piping I really wanted out of the picture. Way to many bends and length creating big spikes in heat and lag. And that intercooler simply gives no chance to the coolant system and A/C to work as it sould.




« Last Edit: February 06, 2017, 02:29:21 PM by jtin » Logged
jtin
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« Reply #6 on: July 08, 2015, 08:14:13 PM »

3.5 -4 inch exhaust in the making. Fully vbanded and internally tig welded where I could










« Last Edit: February 11, 2017, 09:07:05 PM by jtin » Logged
jtin
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« Reply #7 on: July 08, 2015, 08:25:24 PM »

Here is where I think the real heart of the system is. A custom sized bell intercooler core with huge 1.5 inch water lines, and next to nothing for cold pipe bends up to TB. The spool and intake temps should be about as good as I could possibly think to make it.











« Last Edit: February 06, 2017, 02:31:35 PM by jtin » Logged
jtin
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« Reply #8 on: July 08, 2015, 08:40:22 PM »

I've had nothing but rod bearing problems with my engine. Not gonna get in a big discussion over it but this is my final attempt to fix the problem. 10k for a drysump system. 18 litres of oil in this bad boy. Piston suction (20-40hp) and capable (not planning to) 8500 rpm in a 1/4 mile pass.




It opens up tons of stuff underneath , that been said it also runs (3) -16 lines to the back. I also went to a mechanical fuel pump driven by the shaft of the drysump. That is receiving a -12 fuel line from bottom of tank. I spent 6k and steel braided lines and fittings on the build. No that was not a typo lol










« Last Edit: February 11, 2017, 09:09:30 PM by jtin » Logged
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« Reply #9 on: July 08, 2015, 10:34:38 PM »

The pictures are awesome Joel!  I saw the work and a few throw away parts.  You've worked your ass off on this project.  Quality of built is top notch! 

 :goodjob:  I think it's going to take you a few years to get 'er all polished up.   :2thumbsup:

I think you're obssessed with Turbos Bud.  Haha
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
jtin
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« Reply #10 on: July 30, 2015, 12:49:04 PM »

Intercooler ice box and lids going through the floor to maintain 100% hatch space. The weight is 80lbs when full of water. Water is very heavy as the tank and pump come in at under 20lbs







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jtin
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« Reply #11 on: July 30, 2015, 12:53:42 PM »

Liquid to oil oil cooler. This is going to be mounted internally into the radiator end tank. Was a huge pain but wanted to maximize air flow to the rad and AC cores only. I purchased this from C@R radiator. It's there biggest one (22 plate) that they offer.
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jtin
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« Reply #12 on: July 30, 2015, 01:00:39 PM »

Here is the modded belt tensioner. The belt was running to close to the exhaust and was not allowing full sweep to remove the belt. This is the type of stuff that takes all kinds of time to figure out.





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jtin
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« Reply #13 on: July 30, 2015, 01:05:49 PM »

Built a new shock tower cross member that also ties into the motor plate. Motor plate ties into upper and lower frame rails making it super stiff package when all tied together



Filters and hood hinged closed

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jtin
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« Reply #14 on: July 30, 2015, 02:38:33 PM »

Rear feed AC lines. This is an 06 dodge ram cummins compressor. Does not bolt up and has an 8 rib pulley vs the stock being a 7. Spent many hrs welding new mounting points on the timing cover and motor plate.

You can see how the side AC lines are a no go up against the 3.5 exhaust

Here I added an idler to get the belt away from the exhaust. Without it the belt was touching

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