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The VIPER Garage  |  Generation-specific Viper Forums  |  RT/10 & GTS Viper Discussions  |  Sway Bar Question
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Author Topic: Sway Bar Question  (Read 2635 times)
jasontiff
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« on: November 04, 2010, 12:55:12 PM »

I bought this used from treesnake on the VCA board. I haven't dealt with the suspension much so this is new territory. Is putting this thing on in this condition okay, even temporarily, or do I need to find a new one or have this one fixed?

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2001 Twin Turbo Viper GTS
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« Reply #1 on: November 04, 2010, 01:53:21 PM »

IMO, you would be fine running it that way for awhile.  Its not ideal of course, but if you need to drive it with that, you aren't going to hurt the car.  In fact, you can drive the car without the anti-sway bar, your car will just handle like an old boat. 
That cracked part is just the boot to seal in the grease for the bushing.  Without it, the grease leaks out and dries up, leaving the bushing dry.  Maybe squirt some extra bearing grease in there just to lube it up a little. 
A word of warning, if this does fail, you are going hear a loud snap, but there should be any damage to the car.  It will most likely happen when turning a corner.  Just pullover and make sure its not dragging on anything until you can get home.   Maybe carry a little mechanic's wire to tie it up out of the way just in case.  This is all very unlikely, but I'm just letting you know.
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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
jasontiff
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« Reply #2 on: November 04, 2010, 02:23:27 PM »

I kind of figured as much. That it wouldn't be ideal, but it'd work...especially if I didn't push it hard in the corners.

It currently doesn't have a sway bar. Corners...even slow corners...are pretty scary. The car is all over the place. I'm perfectly fine taking it easy and don't really want to get wild in the twisties anyway, but having a serious lack of handling takes away confidence in the car and is a safety issue for me.

The bar itself is fine. Do you know if there is any way to fix those parts without replacing the entire sway bar?
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2001 Twin Turbo Viper GTS
plumcrazy
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« Reply #3 on: November 04, 2010, 02:56:14 PM »

id replace before any HIGH speeds runs in mexico personally. but should be fine for normal driving
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« Reply #4 on: November 04, 2010, 07:00:47 PM »

Phil, why would you be wary of high speed straight-line runs?
Jason just said he didn't even have one before, so obviously it doesn't really get much use in a straight-line.  I understand that it does have a very slim chance of falling off, but I'm sure tree did some pretty heavy accelerations with that same part.  There is really no reason it would break going straight, even at high speed.

Jason, I think you have the right idea.  Just take it easy in the twisties.
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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #5 on: November 04, 2010, 08:40:28 PM »

Nice pic, but you need to shake and move the joint around and see if it's loose.  As Tim said, that's a broken grease seal.  It keeps out the water and more important keeps out the sand and dust.  Sand will wear it out fast.

You should be able to find a new rubber seal/boot for $20 probably.  Get a mechanic that can do P(?) lock clamps to clamp the boot ends.

Ted
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
plumcrazy
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« Reply #6 on: November 05, 2010, 03:22:28 AM »

i have been in alleged high speed runs with wind, the car started to rock or roll, i assume thats exactly when you would want a proper sway bar in your car.

at 180mph, it doesnt take much to get squirrelly

id bet his sway bar was taken off for some 1/4 mile stuff to help plant the rear wheels. but id doubt anyone at the mile events would run without one. but i could obviously be wrong.
« Last Edit: November 05, 2010, 03:26:22 AM by plumcrazy » Logged
Leslie
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« Reply #7 on: November 05, 2010, 04:35:19 AM »

Any chance you can get a little more info from treesnake?

Are you without a swaybar at all?  I might have a stock one I could send you.
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eucharistos
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« Reply #8 on: November 05, 2010, 07:46:16 AM »

..... HIGH speeds runs in mexico....

do we have to go to mexico around here?
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jasontiff
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« Reply #9 on: November 05, 2010, 08:01:46 AM »

I was told the front sway bar was removed for the same reason Plum mentioned; traction issues from a dig at the strip.

Leslie, I have no sway bar at all currently. I bought this one from treesnake but didn't really look it over until a few days ago. Obviously I'd much rather have one that has grease seals that are intact. If you have one, PM me about it.

As far as the high speed runs go, this car has gone fairly fast without one at all (thanks, YouTube!). Is it safe? Beats me. Is it any less or more safe with a sway bar in this condition? Beats me x2. I'd rather put one on with no issues instead of rolling the dice.
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2001 Twin Turbo Viper GTS
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« Reply #10 on: November 05, 2010, 08:27:02 AM »

do we have to go to mexico around here?
Not by me, but most people use it for legal reasons, in case the cops are patrolling the interwebz ;)
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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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« Reply #11 on: November 05, 2010, 08:29:27 AM »

Like I said in my first post, it isn't ideal to run without a sway bar, or to have one that isn't 100%, but it can be done. 
Jason, I would take Leslie up on her offer.  That's your best option right there.
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97GTS B&W: Roe S/C 6.5#, VEC3, custom W/M, Borla headers and catless exhaust, smooth tubes and K&Ns, JM stg3 heads, 1.7 Arrow RR, 3.55 gears, Fidanza, B&M sst, 661hp/683tq
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #12 on: November 06, 2010, 05:26:49 PM »

Sway bars proved to be so important that even cheapo cars came with front sway bars back in the 60s.  Super lighweight and NO performance car were the only one without a swaybar.

The compromise is that stock swaybars (even vettes and Vipers) use junk rubber bushings for mounting systems.

Drag cars that only go in a straight line removed the swaybars because they merely slow the car down by restricting weight transfer and add (about) 60# to the front of the car.

Street machines NEED a swaybar.  Road course and higher perfomance handling cars should get a solid mount sway bar for the same reason that drag cars removed them - faster suspension reaction!  On a turn you need to start the turn to compress the rubber before the sway bar starts to work so a solid sway bar is best as it doesn't need to compress a dozen rubber bushings - it's solid mounted.  The suspension reacts instantly to transfer the weight to the inside of the car.  Drags, when the Torque twists the car (lifts the driver's side) the sway bar tries t keep the car level (fights the weight transfer).

I also recommend that you instal a stock sway bar for your car Jason.  No rattling like a solid mount while allowing a little quicker lift than a solid mount at the launch.


Ted
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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