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The VIPER Garage  |  Vendor Area  |  Striker Heads  |  Striker Heads numbers and info
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Author Topic: Striker Heads numbers and info  (Read 16718 times)
Taillights
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« Reply #15 on: November 21, 2013, 10:30:58 PM »

Hey Joel, Congratulations on your heads, they are the best way to make power. They should flow 360-370 CFM. Also your valve reliefs no matter how big they are they are in the wrong place on your pistons. the striker heads move the valves more toward   the center of the cylinders, could you share with us your cam specs?
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jtin
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« Reply #16 on: November 22, 2013, 04:49:13 AM »

Yeah I was thinking the same thing about the pistons.  I'm gonna do a quick play (dough test) when I do the assembly.  Looks like I'll be needed custom pistons as well. My oh my this has turned into an expensive mod.  I'll be near the 20k mark by the sounds of things.

I won't know anything until I receive parts.
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Taillights
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« Reply #17 on: November 22, 2013, 07:46:43 AM »

Joel, You should be able just re-notch the pistons you have, Any good (High performance )machine shop should be able to handle that. As long as the bottom of the piston doesn't form fit the top dome Or dish and existing valve relief area, you're good to go.
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #18 on: November 22, 2013, 11:49:36 AM »

You can notch the pistons yourself at home. 

Use a slightly larger valve than what's coming in your heads and cut a notch and groove in front of the cutting edge for the valve.  Make sure the cut/notch is on a slight angle to cut (probably about 75degree?). 

Assemble head onto completed short block with tape around valve stem so it won't fall into the cylinder (with used Hgaskets).  Then clamp it into your drill and measure where it touches the piston  Make a tube guide to check the depth of the drill (clamped onto the valve stem above the head ... or cut slowly and measure often.  Once you're cut the groove slightly deeper than what you need (ask Jeff clearance but about .009" for exh I think).  This is the method I used for notching my classic muscle car engine pistons "back in the day".  I also used Silly putty/plastercine for "dough"
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
jtin
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« Reply #19 on: November 23, 2013, 06:28:28 PM »

Here is a pic of my current pistons. Thanks for all the great info guys. The bottoms of my pistons DO follow the top valve relift. I'll be limited on how much I can remove. I also don't want to effect the balance of the short block.


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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #20 on: November 23, 2013, 09:09:11 PM »

I have Ross racing pistons and they are flat tops with no bumps or reliefs/notches
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #21 on: November 23, 2013, 09:13:02 PM »

These are a custom wiseco I had build based on the stock diamonds that came out of my engine. I have my fingers crossed they will work with my striker heads. But I don't think they will since the valve angles on the striker R's are different.
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #22 on: November 23, 2013, 09:28:11 PM »

Yes, better performance with that angle.  Sell your custom pistons?  The sharp edges of the valve reliefs probably cause early detonation compared to a flat or dish piston dome.
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
jtin
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« Reply #23 on: November 24, 2013, 09:35:04 AM »

Yes I've had bad luck with the sharp edges in the past.  I actually got my engine shop to mill the pistons down towards the rings to remove the thin spot on the intake valve. That's where they get hot FIRST.  My engine shop has seems some of the race guys remove 3-4 times what I removed.  We will see how it all turns out in January. May have to get new ones built.  If i do they will also get coated.
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #24 on: November 24, 2013, 10:16:13 AM »

Put your new ones up for sale in the meantime?  Some one buys them and you can order some new slugs
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
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« Reply #25 on: February 07, 2014, 09:42:16 PM »

 could you share with us your cam specs?[/quote]


400 intake    duration248
400 exhaust  duration246

gross lift is 680

LCA 116
overlap15

Intake opens 8btdc       ex59bbdc
intake closed60abdc      ex7atdc
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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #26 on: March 27, 2014, 09:55:09 PM »

OMG, that is a HUGE camshaft.  Doubt it'd last long with street driving.  HUGE!
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
jtin
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« Reply #27 on: March 27, 2014, 10:55:47 PM »

I had lots of concerns at first.

This is what Jeff put together for me.
I talk to Steve from LSM cams , and he told me I'll be just fine on this engine.
Drummon racing told me they have ran this set up for 4 years with zero issues.
Greg Good was another that told me I should be fine.

Now obviously I don't expect 100,000 km out of it.
But they were telling me 50,000 should be doable.
Check springs annually
I also HAD to run jesel lifters and rockers for strength with 3/8 Pushrod.

One thing to remember with the solid cam is the lash and expansion in the lash with a warm engine. My cam with lash and all is probably more like a 650 lift. 

Another option I thought of was to run a 1:6 rocker or even a 1:5 but I went with the 1:7 as recommended.

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Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #28 on: March 29, 2014, 07:38:34 PM »

Mine probably has something of that size in it as well.   :idk:
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1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
jtin
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« Reply #29 on: March 30, 2014, 05:00:38 PM »

Yeah how can one really know.  I take it you never got any cam specs.
One way to find out is by looking at your Pushrod size.  Solids need the big 3/8 rods. If you still had 5/16 in there I'd say your hydro and under 600 lift.
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