The VIPER Garage
User Info
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
June 13, 2021, 12:36:46 PM

Login with username, password and session length
Search:     Advanced search
News
Pick Your ViperGarage Theme
Forum Stats
24622 Posts in 1956 Topics by 1124 Members
Latest Member: StayReadyGTO
Home Help Search Calendar Login Register
The VIPER Garage  |  Viper Racing Discussions  |  Viper Road Racing Discussions  |  HPDE check list
« previous next »
Pages: [1] Go Down Print
Author Topic: HPDE check list  (Read 2116 times)
Leslie
Guest
« on: December 04, 2010, 01:25:25 PM »

Extensive list, yes...MOST items you will find you use!

Track Checklist

At Home:
•   Check / change the oil (fill to top mark on dipstick; flushed within 30 days).
•   Check / change radiator fluid.  I add 2 bottles  Redline Water Wetter, 70% distilled water (about 2 gallons) and 30% coolant to radiator.
•   Check / change power steering fluid.  If you don’t have an overflow tube, turkey baster out a little to give room for expansion.  Replace before driving home.
•   Check transmission and differential fluids.
•   Check for any fluid leaks.
•   Check brake lines for cracks (stainless steel brake lines and "Speed Bleeders" are also a good investment) and make sure your brake lines have enough length in them when your suspension is fully extended. You can buy directly from speedbleeder.com or other performance vendors.
•   Check / change brake fluid (flushed within 30 days).  I flush prior to every event, Motul 660.
Check brake pads (should be 50% or better). I bring a backup set.
Brake lights operational?
•   Check / change clutch fluid.
•   Check hoses and belts for cracks
•   Check rotors (especially the front rotors) and hubs for cracks and wear. I bring a backup set.
Check tires for excessive wear, flat-spots, cuts and bad/worn/cracked valve stems; pressure (32 psi cold for my tires to drive to the track; torque lug nuts (90 ft-lbs for my VR1’s). Check wheels for cracks, especially around the spokes (this is even true of heavily used CCWs).
•   Check the steering & suspension for excess play or clunking sounds. Check sway bar nuts and bolts, especially on the front where the sway bar bolts to the aluminum a-arm. With the car on jacks, wiggle the wheels. If they have some play and move back & forth with your hands at 6 and 12 o'clock, you probably have bad wheel bearings. If they show some play with your hands at 3 and 9 o'clock, you probably have worn tie-rod end-links.
•   Drink extra water before track day, especially if during summer months.
(Recommended to replace brake and clutch fluid with high temp brake fluid (DOT4 recommended, but not essential for first event).

At The Track:
•   Check / adjust tire pressure (26-27 psi cold, ~36 psi hot). Remove center caps. Tape up wheel weights with duct tape or that shiny silver/heat-reflective tape so when the wheel weight adhesive melts from the rotor heat that they don't fall off your wheel.
Add oil to equal 1 quart over full.  I run Mobil 1, 15/50
Gas cap secured.
•   No exposed wires.
•   Seats bolted tightly.
•   Make sure driver’s seat back is up-right and seat is close enough that you can reach the steering wheel with bent arms at the elbows. You will have much better car control this way.
•   Buckle passenger seat belt (if unused).
•   Remove floor mats and ALL other loose objects.
•   Clean windows and mirrors with cleaner, I prefer Invisible glass and use a little RainX in case it starts raining.
•   Apply racer’s tape / car numbers. Tape up the rocker panels below the doors and behind the doors go has high-up and all around the rear brake ducts. On tracks with debris and gravel, this is where 95+% of the paint chipping will occur.  I personally do not tape.
Make sure transponder, if any, is secured by at least two tie-straps, plus some tape is recommended, too.

Stuff To Bring (Required):
•   Driving suit or clothes that meet requirements (long sleeves, long pants, cotton material, etc.)
•   Racing shoes or similar that meet requirements (no open toe, etc.)
Helmet (DOT may be acceptable; but check first. Best to have Snell 2005 or newer, SA rated rather than M rated).
Required forms, completed in advance (e.g., medical, pre-tech, helmet/harness release).
•   Race tape


Stuff To Bring (Highly Recommended):
•   Tire pressure gauge
•   Tire air compressor
•   Engine oil (1-2 quarts)
•   1 container of brake fluid
•   Brake bleeding equipment (tube/bottle, etc.)
•   Duct tape
•   Fire extinguisher
•   WD-40
•   Windex /Invisible glass
•   Paper towels / rags / wipes
•   Cotton towel for yourself
•   Torque wrench w/ socket
•   Other tools (sockets, wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers, etc...)
•   Bottled water, Gatorade, etc.
•   Food, energy bars, etc.

Stuff To Bring (Optional):
•   Spare parts (This is probably overkill for the novice driver. However, it is always better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.)
•   Jack
•   Jack stands
•   Jumper cables
•   Extra brake pads/rotors
•   Funnel for oil
•   Tire pyrometer
•   Run flat aerosol cans
•   Service manual
•   Grease
•   Hand soap or waterless hand cleaner
•   Ice chest with lots of water
•   Sunglasses
•   Sun screen
•   Camera
•   Camera batteries charged
•   Stopwatch
•   Flashlight
•   Map/directions/phone number of hotel
•   Map/directions/phone number of track
•   Gloves
•   Folding chair
•   Umbrella
•   Ground tarp
•   Rain tarp
•   Extra set of keys
« Last Edit: December 04, 2010, 04:26:24 PM by Leslie » Logged
RTTTTed
Owner
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 7728


Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #1 on: December 04, 2010, 05:47:10 PM »

Thanks Leslie for posting that.  It`ll be helpful to check it before heading out for track days!
Logged
1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
Leslie
Guest
« Reply #2 on: December 04, 2010, 08:07:24 PM »

yeh and I'm gonna make sure you have EVERY little thing on that list in your Viper  :lol:


I don't know what it is about 'if you have it you probably won't need it'...but EVERY time I crack a rotor, I don't have an extra one.  Go figure....and when running with PCA, it's not like I can find one haha. 

That IS the great part of running with Viper days..Archer racing is there ready to help you with any mechanical problems or tire needs!
Logged
RTTTTed
Owner
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 7728


Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #3 on: December 06, 2010, 07:17:15 PM »

I didn't hear of any serious problems at this VOI, but one washington guy blew his Cat and as I pulled up behind him I saw red hot pieced flying out of his exhaust.  I jumped out and yelled at him to turn it off.  I told him that he needed to shut his car off until he removed/replaced his Cat.  I suggested that there was small chance that tiny pieces could be sucked into the engine depending on where the explosion that blew his Cat out the exhaust.  Although not likely, any piece of Cat would destroy his engine.  He shut it down and went to the SRT tech guys trailer and they agreed with what I'd said.  So he loaded his 99 GTS onto his trailer and quit a half day early.  No big deal.  He went home, removed his cat and exhaust, cleaned the exh system and after replacing the Cat he was good to go.

 Another Washington guy blew his clutch and the SRT guys pushed it into their trailer.  They suggested he come back in a couple hours.  He didn't have a trailer (although he could have borrowed one) and when he got back, the SRT techs had replaced his clutch in 1.5 hours and it cost him the wholesale price of the clutch!

Kinda like Archer it sounds like!  Hail to Archer, and others like him.  It takes good people to help out when encountering problems and the people that give of themselves are the ones that make this world a better place to live.

Ted
Logged
1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
Leslie
Guest
« Reply #4 on: December 06, 2010, 07:34:00 PM »

Yeh well it didn't sound like you guys got a 'real' track day in, so I doubt anyone got to really push their cars...?

There was a pre-track event though...?
Logged
RTTTTed
Owner
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 7728


Viper Nation - ezine
« Reply #5 on: December 06, 2010, 11:01:06 PM »

2 hours or so, no day.  The day was AutoX (25 sec runs) first, then Go-karts until lunch.  After lunch we got an SRT testing session and they gave us a half dozen SRTs to try out.  Last part of the day we got to run the Road Course.  http://vipernation.com/?p=340

Everyone got instructors and they usually want to keep things slow.  Clint Shearer got enough time in to overheat hsi Paxton car so that all the power went away and he was worried that he'd hurt the engine.  Clint's car is a little more than a base kit, but road course would require a much better air/water/air intercooler than what it comes with.  Unfortunately, I didn't have my Roe car there so I can't make any comparison to a Roe Racing blower.

Ted
Logged
1999 1200rwhp TT GTS - ART, 2001 Roe sc GTS- (4 sale), 440 Duster restomod (sold), 3x Stealth TTs, 92 Daytona IROC with T3, 580whp/1080wtq Cummins pickup.
Pages: [1] Go Up Print 
« previous next »
 

SMF 2.0.2 | SMF © 2011, Simple Machines | Theme by nesianstyles | Buttons by Andrea